Travel Notes
September 2, 1984 - Day 33
ENGLAND - UNITED STATESLondon, England - The Royal National HotelGrandfather Basil caught up with us in the lobby, ditto for Mr. Nocon, Thelma and her husband, Eddie, too. We all had a nice chat with Keith Totilo, the owner/manager of Eurobout, wherein we praised Earl and Bart to the skies. Keith is utterly charming and good-humored, lots of experience as a Tour Manager and claims to have brought a woman on a tour of London -- and she didn't even have a passport! Turns out he's related to Earl, who happens to be the son of his half-brother : charm runs in the family, obviously!end of travel diary 1984
Sunday, September 2, 2007
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 22
Travel Notes
September 1, 1984 - Day 32
FRANCE - ENGLANDParis, France - Hotel IbisEarly rise and shine for the trip to Dunkirk, where we catch the boat back to Ramsgate. Lots of addresses were collected, including Earl and Bart's mailing addresses. We filled out evaluation forms to rate their performance, both Ma and I had the same answers, even though we filled out the forms separately. I gave the thank-you letters to Earl and Bart along with the evaluation forms, then bounced off to attend to last minute packing details.Paris - Dunkirk : coffee stopWe finished the rest room stop within the 20 minutes allotted - a first! This despite LONG line leading to the ladies room. I saw Earl read thank-you note on the bus; he sent me a smile and said it was much appreciated! I think certainly he deserves it, and all the encouragement he can get - it's like being a doctor -- on call throughout the tourist season.An hour into the trip, Mr. Nocon presented Bart's tip and made a speech, then Grandfather Basil added a few bon mots of his own, and then led us in a filksing to the tune of "Auld Lang Syne", the sole lyrics being "Green leaves, there are/Green leaves, there are/Green leaves, there are green leaves...". At the port entrance, Bart kissed my cheeks, European style "for luck, a safe journey, and speedy return". Before long, there was a last-minute, spur of the moment photo session with Bart - "22 days we had, and this only now?!" he exclaimed, acceeded with good grace and enjoyed it as much as we did.Of course, after all the days of recording the mileage for Grandfather Basil, I forgot to take down the final reading in the general excitement! Augh!Dunkirk - Ramsgate, England : on the ferry, disembarkationAu revoir to the continent and hallo to a quiet crossing and an excellent lunch. Francy and I met on deck and were joined by Grandfather, who, while walking us up and down the deck, ran into the rest of the granddaughters and Evelyn. Then back inside for some talk and duty-free shopping. Earl distributed his extra purchases around among us so he could get them past customs. We teased him about having to remember who were holding his bags, or face losing them forever!Ramsgate - London ; en routeWhat a noisy ride it was from Ramsgate up to London! When, during a lull, Truding called for "the Chicken Dance" and Diana sighed, "No Bart, no Chicken Dance," Earl produced a cassette from his bag and had our new driver play it. From the moment I heard the first few bars, I *knew* it was Bart's original tape -- and let everyone know it as well! As the music played, lots of hopeful plans were spawned. One of the best was Diana's plan to open a Chinese restaurant in Jeddah (!!) where Grandfather would be the doorman, Joe and Rita would be the manager and cashier, respectively. Jun would be the "Moulin Rouge" dancer!Earl's tip was presented as we neared London, and Grandfather Basil did the job with flair and panache. He also suggested Eurobout install toilets in their buses, where no one had to pay a single pence, pfennig, schilling, mark, lira, or any other form of currency, which concept was received with much applause from all!London - The Royal National HotelOur last wait for Earl while he checked our rooms and made breakfast arrangements. After all the merriment on the bus, we were quite subdued - then, as we all piled out onto the sidewalk, the champagne from last night, finally went to my head and I bussed Earl's cheek as I got the hotel forms and breakfast cards. This was witnessed by Taiwanese granddaughters and many ooohs and ahhhs were heard, with Diana encouraged to follow my example, and suddenly, everyone was hugging and kissing everyone else!
September 1, 1984 - Day 32
FRANCE - ENGLANDParis, France - Hotel IbisEarly rise and shine for the trip to Dunkirk, where we catch the boat back to Ramsgate. Lots of addresses were collected, including Earl and Bart's mailing addresses. We filled out evaluation forms to rate their performance, both Ma and I had the same answers, even though we filled out the forms separately. I gave the thank-you letters to Earl and Bart along with the evaluation forms, then bounced off to attend to last minute packing details.Paris - Dunkirk : coffee stopWe finished the rest room stop within the 20 minutes allotted - a first! This despite LONG line leading to the ladies room. I saw Earl read thank-you note on the bus; he sent me a smile and said it was much appreciated! I think certainly he deserves it, and all the encouragement he can get - it's like being a doctor -- on call throughout the tourist season.An hour into the trip, Mr. Nocon presented Bart's tip and made a speech, then Grandfather Basil added a few bon mots of his own, and then led us in a filksing to the tune of "Auld Lang Syne", the sole lyrics being "Green leaves, there are/Green leaves, there are/Green leaves, there are green leaves...". At the port entrance, Bart kissed my cheeks, European style "for luck, a safe journey, and speedy return". Before long, there was a last-minute, spur of the moment photo session with Bart - "22 days we had, and this only now?!" he exclaimed, acceeded with good grace and enjoyed it as much as we did.Of course, after all the days of recording the mileage for Grandfather Basil, I forgot to take down the final reading in the general excitement! Augh!Dunkirk - Ramsgate, England : on the ferry, disembarkationAu revoir to the continent and hallo to a quiet crossing and an excellent lunch. Francy and I met on deck and were joined by Grandfather, who, while walking us up and down the deck, ran into the rest of the granddaughters and Evelyn. Then back inside for some talk and duty-free shopping. Earl distributed his extra purchases around among us so he could get them past customs. We teased him about having to remember who were holding his bags, or face losing them forever!Ramsgate - London ; en routeWhat a noisy ride it was from Ramsgate up to London! When, during a lull, Truding called for "the Chicken Dance" and Diana sighed, "No Bart, no Chicken Dance," Earl produced a cassette from his bag and had our new driver play it. From the moment I heard the first few bars, I *knew* it was Bart's original tape -- and let everyone know it as well! As the music played, lots of hopeful plans were spawned. One of the best was Diana's plan to open a Chinese restaurant in Jeddah (!!) where Grandfather would be the doorman, Joe and Rita would be the manager and cashier, respectively. Jun would be the "Moulin Rouge" dancer!Earl's tip was presented as we neared London, and Grandfather Basil did the job with flair and panache. He also suggested Eurobout install toilets in their buses, where no one had to pay a single pence, pfennig, schilling, mark, lira, or any other form of currency, which concept was received with much applause from all!London - The Royal National HotelOur last wait for Earl while he checked our rooms and made breakfast arrangements. After all the merriment on the bus, we were quite subdued - then, as we all piled out onto the sidewalk, the champagne from last night, finally went to my head and I bussed Earl's cheek as I got the hotel forms and breakfast cards. This was witnessed by Taiwanese granddaughters and many ooohs and ahhhs were heard, with Diana encouraged to follow my example, and suddenly, everyone was hugging and kissing everyone else!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 21
Travel Notes
August 31, 1984 - Day 31
FRANCEParis - City TourAlors...what does one do on a marvelous morning in Paris? Mais naturellement, one goes for a walk with Grandfather Basil, of course, to talk about everything under the sun. Next on the agenda is a hearty (?!) Continental breakfast. City tour next avec une vraie, une tres jolie Parisienne is our city guide. I made it a point to mention how entertaining she was, when we met Earl for lunch! Then there was the chance to shop at Galeries Lafayette and Les Printemps, with everyone loaded to the gills with Paris clothes and souvenirs by the end of it. Such very, very interesting comparisons of who bought what, for how much, and where!VersaillesFinally, we got our "class picture" in front of the King's Balcony, and I am going to get the autographs of my personal favorites as soon as the picture comes out. Oh dear, I didn't realize Frank was behind me, so all you can see is his hat! Versailles is an interesting place -- like Hampton Court, the place is shadowed by the tragic fate of its last queen; at least we didn't meet Marie Antoinette's ghost walking through the gardens or the hallways! We did get to see the state bedroom and a lovely official portrait of her with her four children - I never knew she had four; and how hard it had to be to give birth to a royal child -- at least eighty courtiers had to be in the same room as witnesses to the event!The gardens are in full bloom today. The hedges and topiary are something truly amazing.ParisBack to the hotel to rest, then dress for dinner. We were scheduled for a bateau-mouche ride on the Seine before the late show at the Moulin Rouge. Regrettably, snails were faster than the service of the waiters, but the food was worth waiting for, even if we barely made the boat. We had to wait for the Nocon group and Evelyn to come in from downtown, where their restaurant also had slow service, yet somehow Bart managed to get us to the quay on time without acquiring a gendarme as escort!Paris seen from the river is delightful. Even delinquents throwing beer and juice down into the boat from two bridges could not ruin the experience. There was even a full moon out as we passed the Eiffel and Notre Dame, fat and yellow and bright to silver the surroundings of the floodlit cathedral.Off to the Moulin Rouge, Montmarte - the red light district of Paris (the demimonde). It was warm inside, and perhaps a trifle more crowded than in the days of Toulouse-Lautrec, whose prints adorn the foyer. There were three bottles of champagne per table, and a show to match or surpass anything in Las Vegas. The Moulin Rouge, is, after all, the home of the "grandes cocottes" of can-can fame!The bus was filled with laughter on our way back, and quick thinking from Earl had us looking out the windows on the right instead of left, thereby distracting us from a car accident. Mr. Lee, our resident rum imbiber, was very strung out, claiming he didn't want to go home after "seeing so much milk"! Grandfather, bless his proper English heart, engaged him in scholarly argument on the proper way to refer to the mammary endowments of the ladies of the chorus, and what with one thing and another, we got to the hotel by 2:30 am.Being too excited to sleep, i spend the better part of two hours composing thank-you letters to Earl and Bart, with stationery bought at Galeries Lafayette. We leave Bart at Dunkirk tomorrow. He'll go back to Brussels to replace the broken window we got in Barcelona. For our part, we head back to Ramsgate and eventually, London...and then we scatter for home or other destinations.Earl gave his "tips on tipping" spiel this morning -- but we showed him we were nearly 800km ahead and presented the envelopes that had been going around in Lourdes!
August 31, 1984 - Day 31
FRANCEParis - City TourAlors...what does one do on a marvelous morning in Paris? Mais naturellement, one goes for a walk with Grandfather Basil, of course, to talk about everything under the sun. Next on the agenda is a hearty (?!) Continental breakfast. City tour next avec une vraie, une tres jolie Parisienne is our city guide. I made it a point to mention how entertaining she was, when we met Earl for lunch! Then there was the chance to shop at Galeries Lafayette and Les Printemps, with everyone loaded to the gills with Paris clothes and souvenirs by the end of it. Such very, very interesting comparisons of who bought what, for how much, and where!VersaillesFinally, we got our "class picture" in front of the King's Balcony, and I am going to get the autographs of my personal favorites as soon as the picture comes out. Oh dear, I didn't realize Frank was behind me, so all you can see is his hat! Versailles is an interesting place -- like Hampton Court, the place is shadowed by the tragic fate of its last queen; at least we didn't meet Marie Antoinette's ghost walking through the gardens or the hallways! We did get to see the state bedroom and a lovely official portrait of her with her four children - I never knew she had four; and how hard it had to be to give birth to a royal child -- at least eighty courtiers had to be in the same room as witnesses to the event!The gardens are in full bloom today. The hedges and topiary are something truly amazing.ParisBack to the hotel to rest, then dress for dinner. We were scheduled for a bateau-mouche ride on the Seine before the late show at the Moulin Rouge. Regrettably, snails were faster than the service of the waiters, but the food was worth waiting for, even if we barely made the boat. We had to wait for the Nocon group and Evelyn to come in from downtown, where their restaurant also had slow service, yet somehow Bart managed to get us to the quay on time without acquiring a gendarme as escort!Paris seen from the river is delightful. Even delinquents throwing beer and juice down into the boat from two bridges could not ruin the experience. There was even a full moon out as we passed the Eiffel and Notre Dame, fat and yellow and bright to silver the surroundings of the floodlit cathedral.Off to the Moulin Rouge, Montmarte - the red light district of Paris (the demimonde). It was warm inside, and perhaps a trifle more crowded than in the days of Toulouse-Lautrec, whose prints adorn the foyer. There were three bottles of champagne per table, and a show to match or surpass anything in Las Vegas. The Moulin Rouge, is, after all, the home of the "grandes cocottes" of can-can fame!The bus was filled with laughter on our way back, and quick thinking from Earl had us looking out the windows on the right instead of left, thereby distracting us from a car accident. Mr. Lee, our resident rum imbiber, was very strung out, claiming he didn't want to go home after "seeing so much milk"! Grandfather, bless his proper English heart, engaged him in scholarly argument on the proper way to refer to the mammary endowments of the ladies of the chorus, and what with one thing and another, we got to the hotel by 2:30 am.Being too excited to sleep, i spend the better part of two hours composing thank-you letters to Earl and Bart, with stationery bought at Galeries Lafayette. We leave Bart at Dunkirk tomorrow. He'll go back to Brussels to replace the broken window we got in Barcelona. For our part, we head back to Ramsgate and eventually, London...and then we scatter for home or other destinations.Earl gave his "tips on tipping" spiel this morning -- but we showed him we were nearly 800km ahead and presented the envelopes that had been going around in Lourdes!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 20
Travel Notes
August 30, 1984 - Day 30
FRANCELourdes to Paris - en routeOh, my eyes. We were off at nearly the crack of dawn, for the long haul drive to Paris. At barely one hour into the trip, Earl and Bart had to scout for an open gas/petrol station for Carmen, who was in a state of urgency. Miraculously, we found a gas station with open restrooms, but once Carmen got down, everyone else decided to take advantage, too. Earl's comment of "Try not to think of running water. . ." was not much of a help! People stocked up on sandwiches, soft drinks, and canned goods at a supermarket in the next town, and the next road stop was after a toll gate for an impromptu safety check by French highway patrol. Something to do with the broken window. The picnic lunch stop, was a change after roadside restaurants. We were blessed with beautiful weather - blue skies and warm sunshine, a cool breeze to take the edge off the noon sun.The ladies' room was a source of unwitting entertainment. The toilet was a porcelain "squat-as-you-go" affair, essentially a porcelain-lined hole in the ground with two raised steps for the feet. Ma was first in - but she's seen similar before, so no particular reaction. My own equilibrium held fairly well until I passed Carmen. I burst into giggles when she asked how it was; told her to see for herself and went away grinning. Couldn't help it, but I would have paid good money to see the expression on her face!As each of the ladies emerged, she would be met by bland, deadpan looks before the comrades-in-distress broke up in conspiratorial laughter!While all this was going on, Bart had himself a little rest, and a well-deserved one. Earl was bustling about confirming reservations for the optional tours in Paris, and I am determined to enjoy myself up to *here* before the tour ends! I will miss the nice people : Basil and Rita Jackson, Joe and Maria Silveira, Bart and Earl. I'll always think of them fondly, even if we lose touch with each other.Paris - Hotel IbisThe "family" is on the entire fifth floor, and Lois announced that her and Angy's room overlooks a cemetery, good Lord. The illuminations tour is set for nine tonight, and Earl has an expression on his face that would indicate that Paris holds warm memories for him. Looking out of the windows after five minutes in the bus during the tour, I am inclined to agree with Earl; there is an ambiance about Paris that justifies its reputation as a city of romance and romantics.First we drove down the Champs Elysees, "The Avenue of Diamonds and Rubies", stretching from the base of the Tuileries Gardens to the Trocadero, the Eiffel Tower, the Place de l'Etoile, and the Eiffel Tower. Fantastic perspectives - it's wonderful to sight along its length from the Carrousel Arch in the Louvre courtyard, up the Place de la Concorde and the Arc du Triomphe : car headlights and tail-lights are like ribbons in motion.Then the bus stopped at the Place de l'Etoile and we all had a chance to walk under the Arc d'Triomphe of Napoleon I (The Great) where we had time to read off the names of various generals and campaigns. We also passed through possibly one of the narrowest gaps in the city : a pair of arches opening into the Louvre courtyard. Bart says it is all in the speed and the timing of the traffic lights - I suspect knowing the bus is certain to fit between the walls is also part of the magic!
August 30, 1984 - Day 30
FRANCELourdes to Paris - en routeOh, my eyes. We were off at nearly the crack of dawn, for the long haul drive to Paris. At barely one hour into the trip, Earl and Bart had to scout for an open gas/petrol station for Carmen, who was in a state of urgency. Miraculously, we found a gas station with open restrooms, but once Carmen got down, everyone else decided to take advantage, too. Earl's comment of "Try not to think of running water. . ." was not much of a help! People stocked up on sandwiches, soft drinks, and canned goods at a supermarket in the next town, and the next road stop was after a toll gate for an impromptu safety check by French highway patrol. Something to do with the broken window. The picnic lunch stop, was a change after roadside restaurants. We were blessed with beautiful weather - blue skies and warm sunshine, a cool breeze to take the edge off the noon sun.The ladies' room was a source of unwitting entertainment. The toilet was a porcelain "squat-as-you-go" affair, essentially a porcelain-lined hole in the ground with two raised steps for the feet. Ma was first in - but she's seen similar before, so no particular reaction. My own equilibrium held fairly well until I passed Carmen. I burst into giggles when she asked how it was; told her to see for herself and went away grinning. Couldn't help it, but I would have paid good money to see the expression on her face!As each of the ladies emerged, she would be met by bland, deadpan looks before the comrades-in-distress broke up in conspiratorial laughter!While all this was going on, Bart had himself a little rest, and a well-deserved one. Earl was bustling about confirming reservations for the optional tours in Paris, and I am determined to enjoy myself up to *here* before the tour ends! I will miss the nice people : Basil and Rita Jackson, Joe and Maria Silveira, Bart and Earl. I'll always think of them fondly, even if we lose touch with each other.Paris - Hotel IbisThe "family" is on the entire fifth floor, and Lois announced that her and Angy's room overlooks a cemetery, good Lord. The illuminations tour is set for nine tonight, and Earl has an expression on his face that would indicate that Paris holds warm memories for him. Looking out of the windows after five minutes in the bus during the tour, I am inclined to agree with Earl; there is an ambiance about Paris that justifies its reputation as a city of romance and romantics.First we drove down the Champs Elysees, "The Avenue of Diamonds and Rubies", stretching from the base of the Tuileries Gardens to the Trocadero, the Eiffel Tower, the Place de l'Etoile, and the Eiffel Tower. Fantastic perspectives - it's wonderful to sight along its length from the Carrousel Arch in the Louvre courtyard, up the Place de la Concorde and the Arc du Triomphe : car headlights and tail-lights are like ribbons in motion.Then the bus stopped at the Place de l'Etoile and we all had a chance to walk under the Arc d'Triomphe of Napoleon I (The Great) where we had time to read off the names of various generals and campaigns. We also passed through possibly one of the narrowest gaps in the city : a pair of arches opening into the Louvre courtyard. Bart says it is all in the speed and the timing of the traffic lights - I suspect knowing the bus is certain to fit between the walls is also part of the magic!
Wednesday, August 15, 2007
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 19
Travel Notes
August 29, 1984 - Day 29
FRANCELourdesAll right, these rooms are not exactly designed for comfort. There is no place to put the suircases on the floor, so we use the beds. On the other hand, the bathroom more than makes up for the smallness of the room! So does the room's location : on the very top of the hotel, like living in a belfry!We went back to the grotto after breakfast, and caught up with a Mass celebrated by the parish priest and bishop of the Irish diocese of St. Elphin. Then time for a quiet walk around the grotto and the Basilica while the weather smiled on us, being deliciously cool. Ma was able to offer a thanksgiving Mass in one of the chapel offices. The thing that gets me about European churches, is the question of how did they move all those blocks of stone by hand? It's awesome to think that most everyone worked at it to glorify God, and not much for fame or money (at least, we hope so).Ma took a rest in the afternoon so I went down to the river Gave for some fresh air. On our way out later, to do some souvenir shopping, we saw Bart patching with tape and plastic sheeting, the window that got broken in Barcelona, which was a very nice, masterly job. He says as long as nobody sits close to, or beside it, it should hold till we get back to Dunkirk.Tonight's dinner, thanks be to God and the Virgin, was more substantial than last night's! Talk about the tips due to Bart and Earl have started and Gene Nocon passing out envelopes for this purpose (bit forthcoming, eh?). My personal opinion is that money can't begin to express what those two have done to make this trip a good one.Ma and I had one last look at the candlelight walk from the top of the basilica. It was awesome - a sea of light in the dark, and there are those who would find a comforting symbolism in that. Earl mentioned before we pulled into Lourdes that it wuld be hot and warned about the dangers of fainting, but it seems he was proven wrong on both counts, fortunately!There's an early start scheduled for tomorrow's loooong drive up to Paris, the last stop of the tour.The *last* stop! Where has the time gone?
August 29, 1984 - Day 29
FRANCELourdesAll right, these rooms are not exactly designed for comfort. There is no place to put the suircases on the floor, so we use the beds. On the other hand, the bathroom more than makes up for the smallness of the room! So does the room's location : on the very top of the hotel, like living in a belfry!We went back to the grotto after breakfast, and caught up with a Mass celebrated by the parish priest and bishop of the Irish diocese of St. Elphin. Then time for a quiet walk around the grotto and the Basilica while the weather smiled on us, being deliciously cool. Ma was able to offer a thanksgiving Mass in one of the chapel offices. The thing that gets me about European churches, is the question of how did they move all those blocks of stone by hand? It's awesome to think that most everyone worked at it to glorify God, and not much for fame or money (at least, we hope so).Ma took a rest in the afternoon so I went down to the river Gave for some fresh air. On our way out later, to do some souvenir shopping, we saw Bart patching with tape and plastic sheeting, the window that got broken in Barcelona, which was a very nice, masterly job. He says as long as nobody sits close to, or beside it, it should hold till we get back to Dunkirk.Tonight's dinner, thanks be to God and the Virgin, was more substantial than last night's! Talk about the tips due to Bart and Earl have started and Gene Nocon passing out envelopes for this purpose (bit forthcoming, eh?). My personal opinion is that money can't begin to express what those two have done to make this trip a good one.Ma and I had one last look at the candlelight walk from the top of the basilica. It was awesome - a sea of light in the dark, and there are those who would find a comforting symbolism in that. Earl mentioned before we pulled into Lourdes that it wuld be hot and warned about the dangers of fainting, but it seems he was proven wrong on both counts, fortunately!There's an early start scheduled for tomorrow's loooong drive up to Paris, the last stop of the tour.The *last* stop! Where has the time gone?
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 18
Travel Notes
August 28, 1984 - Day 28
SPAIN - FRANCEBarcelona, Spain - Hotel ReginaTalk about your rude awakenings, everyone jolted out of half-conscious state by the news that the bus had been broken into! Some hooligans rendered the window of the left-hand emergency door a total loss, making off with Frank's two bottels of wine and the Silveiras' cardigans before vanishing into the night. Bart has very little reason indeed to love Barcelona in particular and Spain in general, now. The remaining glass had to be cleaned, and something improvised to cover the empty space where the window used to be, which process delayed our departure so that we left at eight instead of seven.Barcelona, Spain - Lourdes, France - en routeThe broken window raised eyebrows at Perpignan, and sighs of relief from me and Ma, for we've entered France for the last time. It looks like Earl can manage a good night's sleep in Lourdes, now that we've had a smooth border crossing, and after we get through the Pyrenees to Lourdes. The lunch stop was memorable for the little self-service that I think deserves three stars for its poitrine de veau. It's served with shell pasta in a golden sauce, precisely what one needs to recover equilibrium after traveling the zigzag roads. We apparently had a near miss when a sleepy driver shifted into our lane - just as we rounded a bend in the road! Bart whisked the bus into the opposite (and fortunately, clear!) lane and had us back in the proper lane before all the sleepy passengers and Earl even knew something was out of kilter...our eyes met in the mirror for a moment as he did a quick check to see if anyone had awakened, and I gave him an approving nod, as did Grandfather Basil.Lourdes, France - Hotel ChristinaWe arrived safely in Lourdes in time for dinner, but I think we were underfed. ONE slice of meat on the plate? It felt like we were served not merely a pilgrim's dinner, but a penitent's one, more likely, as the slice wasn't all that big, either. Two other busloads had pulled in ahead of us, but still. . .a little more of the main course and less of the bread would have been nice. Once dinner had finished, straight to the grotto for the candlelight procession and a drink of the holy water. To be in Lourdes, especially after the small miracle Our Lady worked for me. . .it makes me wonder what I ever did right to deserve it. A very humbling experience, especially when one sees the faith of so many people from so many places, and somehow you get the feeling that there is hope for the world yet!
August 28, 1984 - Day 28
SPAIN - FRANCEBarcelona, Spain - Hotel ReginaTalk about your rude awakenings, everyone jolted out of half-conscious state by the news that the bus had been broken into! Some hooligans rendered the window of the left-hand emergency door a total loss, making off with Frank's two bottels of wine and the Silveiras' cardigans before vanishing into the night. Bart has very little reason indeed to love Barcelona in particular and Spain in general, now. The remaining glass had to be cleaned, and something improvised to cover the empty space where the window used to be, which process delayed our departure so that we left at eight instead of seven.Barcelona, Spain - Lourdes, France - en routeThe broken window raised eyebrows at Perpignan, and sighs of relief from me and Ma, for we've entered France for the last time. It looks like Earl can manage a good night's sleep in Lourdes, now that we've had a smooth border crossing, and after we get through the Pyrenees to Lourdes. The lunch stop was memorable for the little self-service that I think deserves three stars for its poitrine de veau. It's served with shell pasta in a golden sauce, precisely what one needs to recover equilibrium after traveling the zigzag roads. We apparently had a near miss when a sleepy driver shifted into our lane - just as we rounded a bend in the road! Bart whisked the bus into the opposite (and fortunately, clear!) lane and had us back in the proper lane before all the sleepy passengers and Earl even knew something was out of kilter...our eyes met in the mirror for a moment as he did a quick check to see if anyone had awakened, and I gave him an approving nod, as did Grandfather Basil.Lourdes, France - Hotel ChristinaWe arrived safely in Lourdes in time for dinner, but I think we were underfed. ONE slice of meat on the plate? It felt like we were served not merely a pilgrim's dinner, but a penitent's one, more likely, as the slice wasn't all that big, either. Two other busloads had pulled in ahead of us, but still. . .a little more of the main course and less of the bread would have been nice. Once dinner had finished, straight to the grotto for the candlelight procession and a drink of the holy water. To be in Lourdes, especially after the small miracle Our Lady worked for me. . .it makes me wonder what I ever did right to deserve it. A very humbling experience, especially when one sees the faith of so many people from so many places, and somehow you get the feeling that there is hope for the world yet!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 17
Travel Notes
August 27, 1984 - Day 27
SPAINBarcelona - City TourHola Espana! The group was on time and the guide, late! Though I must say that it was a comprehensive tour of the Plaza Cataluna, Sagrada Familia Church, Montjuie (Jewish Mountain), the harbor and replica of Columbus' Santa Maria, the Ramblas, and back to the self-service where we had dinner last night. Among the tour highlights were the Cathedral in the old town; though when the guide gave us a walking tour and a shopping break, I think that was considered the best part of all. Ma and I got ourselves a Spanish shawl and a fan each, and other bits to remind us of Spain. Going through the Ramblas, we passed through a narrow lane where Bart managed to squeeze through - just barely - and the guide was loudly appreciative of his skill.Barcelona - Paella DinnerThere was a break in the day's activities for that time-honored tradition of the afternoon siesta, then off to dinner! The restaurant is off the little square behind the Cathedral, with lots of cobblestones! It was delightful to realize that Bart and Earl get to sit with us this time, and watching the normally EXTREMELY reserved Tour Manager acted as wine steward for the Sangria was something to see, indeed! I was fortunate to have him on my right, Grandfather on my left, and Bart took the head of the table beside Mr. Nocon.The dinner equal to that in Rome : salad, shrimp in the shell, paella with clams, all washed down with Sangria. The jokes flew thick and fast, and Earl made an after-dinner speech while turning a pretty shade of pink - a nice Kodak moment, that was. I got involved with a scholarly debate with Jun on just exactly how long the Spanish were in the Philippines - 400 or 392 years? In the end, the question was settled with a compromise and a Sangria toast : but not without some ruffled feathers on the oldies' part.Another source of merriment was when Grandmother Rita walked out of the restaurant on Lois' arm, and *singing*! Grandfather was *much* amused. Bart put on the "Chicken Dance" (again!) when we were all in the bus, while Bertha and Frank danced in the empty plaza. At 11:30 pm, the city is just starting to wake up from siesta, with folks all over the Ramblas.We will definitely be sleeping all the way to Lourdes!
August 27, 1984 - Day 27
SPAINBarcelona - City TourHola Espana! The group was on time and the guide, late! Though I must say that it was a comprehensive tour of the Plaza Cataluna, Sagrada Familia Church, Montjuie (Jewish Mountain), the harbor and replica of Columbus' Santa Maria, the Ramblas, and back to the self-service where we had dinner last night. Among the tour highlights were the Cathedral in the old town; though when the guide gave us a walking tour and a shopping break, I think that was considered the best part of all. Ma and I got ourselves a Spanish shawl and a fan each, and other bits to remind us of Spain. Going through the Ramblas, we passed through a narrow lane where Bart managed to squeeze through - just barely - and the guide was loudly appreciative of his skill.Barcelona - Paella DinnerThere was a break in the day's activities for that time-honored tradition of the afternoon siesta, then off to dinner! The restaurant is off the little square behind the Cathedral, with lots of cobblestones! It was delightful to realize that Bart and Earl get to sit with us this time, and watching the normally EXTREMELY reserved Tour Manager acted as wine steward for the Sangria was something to see, indeed! I was fortunate to have him on my right, Grandfather on my left, and Bart took the head of the table beside Mr. Nocon.The dinner equal to that in Rome : salad, shrimp in the shell, paella with clams, all washed down with Sangria. The jokes flew thick and fast, and Earl made an after-dinner speech while turning a pretty shade of pink - a nice Kodak moment, that was. I got involved with a scholarly debate with Jun on just exactly how long the Spanish were in the Philippines - 400 or 392 years? In the end, the question was settled with a compromise and a Sangria toast : but not without some ruffled feathers on the oldies' part.Another source of merriment was when Grandmother Rita walked out of the restaurant on Lois' arm, and *singing*! Grandfather was *much* amused. Bart put on the "Chicken Dance" (again!) when we were all in the bus, while Bertha and Frank danced in the empty plaza. At 11:30 pm, the city is just starting to wake up from siesta, with folks all over the Ramblas.We will definitely be sleeping all the way to Lourdes!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 16
Travel Notes
August 26, 1984 - Day 26
FRANCE - SPAINNice - Perpignan, en routeTraveling through southern France, home of artists and the mistral - the hot, dry wind that starts brush fires and drives men mad. Famous also, for the Camargue and its wild horses. which is something that I'd like to see some day. Most everyone spent the morning half of the trip catching up on sleep lost in Monte Carlo, with myself sleeping over two seats, with legs stretched across the aisle and Teddy under my chin.Perpignan - Franco-Iberian borderBart made it known he doesn't care for Spain, and today he was justified. Apparently customs/immigration officer woke up on the wrong side of the bed today, because when Bart stopped two feet over the line, and not soon enough; Earl was ordered out with all the passports! The chief customs officer (a recipient of two bottles of wine from Bart's last run) came up to say hello, and we all replied in Spanish, which may have helped pass us through a little faster than otherwise.Franco-Iberian border - Barcelona, Spain - en routeHaving pulled out of the border crossing, there was no reason for Bart's opinon about Spain to improve. Ten minutes into the main highway, some kid decided we looked like a trash can and threw a heavy object at the side of the bus! The loud thump startled most people on the right-hand side of the bus, and many were the questioning glances being shot around the bus. Bart's temper showed itself when he declared he would let the car pass and then tailgate him the rest of the way, and in his quiet way, Earl averted potential crisis by firmly warning that it wasn't the right time. Fortunately Bart agreed, though he was rather grim about it. I seriously doubt the Antarctic would have been far enough away for the culprit if anyone from the bus had caught him!Barcelona, Spain - Hotel ReginaTo compensate for reining him in on the road, Earl let Bart have his way when it was time to park in front of the hotel. The official unloading zone was occupied, and the porter was insisting we unload where we were anyway. To the obvious question, "What if we are caught?" The porter shrugged, and Bart had a few well-chosen words with him. Dinner was at a little self-service that Earl goes to, however, another coach group had beat us to it."Outrageous!" comes the good-humored comment, from our good-humored Tour Manager. "This is *my* self-service!"Earl excused himself early and left us in Bart's hands while going to arrange our night tour for tomorrow; the long line did not match his need for speed, since he needed to call various offices before they closed. Bart drew up behind me in the line and offered to make me the Tour Manager in Earl's place so I could eat for free, an offer I had too many scruples to accept, but it was tempting enough...
August 26, 1984 - Day 26
FRANCE - SPAINNice - Perpignan, en routeTraveling through southern France, home of artists and the mistral - the hot, dry wind that starts brush fires and drives men mad. Famous also, for the Camargue and its wild horses. which is something that I'd like to see some day. Most everyone spent the morning half of the trip catching up on sleep lost in Monte Carlo, with myself sleeping over two seats, with legs stretched across the aisle and Teddy under my chin.Perpignan - Franco-Iberian borderBart made it known he doesn't care for Spain, and today he was justified. Apparently customs/immigration officer woke up on the wrong side of the bed today, because when Bart stopped two feet over the line, and not soon enough; Earl was ordered out with all the passports! The chief customs officer (a recipient of two bottles of wine from Bart's last run) came up to say hello, and we all replied in Spanish, which may have helped pass us through a little faster than otherwise.Franco-Iberian border - Barcelona, Spain - en routeHaving pulled out of the border crossing, there was no reason for Bart's opinon about Spain to improve. Ten minutes into the main highway, some kid decided we looked like a trash can and threw a heavy object at the side of the bus! The loud thump startled most people on the right-hand side of the bus, and many were the questioning glances being shot around the bus. Bart's temper showed itself when he declared he would let the car pass and then tailgate him the rest of the way, and in his quiet way, Earl averted potential crisis by firmly warning that it wasn't the right time. Fortunately Bart agreed, though he was rather grim about it. I seriously doubt the Antarctic would have been far enough away for the culprit if anyone from the bus had caught him!Barcelona, Spain - Hotel ReginaTo compensate for reining him in on the road, Earl let Bart have his way when it was time to park in front of the hotel. The official unloading zone was occupied, and the porter was insisting we unload where we were anyway. To the obvious question, "What if we are caught?" The porter shrugged, and Bart had a few well-chosen words with him. Dinner was at a little self-service that Earl goes to, however, another coach group had beat us to it."Outrageous!" comes the good-humored comment, from our good-humored Tour Manager. "This is *my* self-service!"Earl excused himself early and left us in Bart's hands while going to arrange our night tour for tomorrow; the long line did not match his need for speed, since he needed to call various offices before they closed. Bart drew up behind me in the line and offered to make me the Tour Manager in Earl's place so I could eat for free, an offer I had too many scruples to accept, but it was tempting enough...
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 15
Travel Notes
August 25, 1984 - Day 25
FRANCE
Nice
Ma and I had a marvelous morning up and down Avenue Jean Medecin peering into all the shops. I ended up with a new dress and a shawl for our night out at Monaco-Monte Carlo, which makes me feel very much a lady. The shawl was from the Nice Galeries Lafayette, ditto for new black stockings, *and* another travel bag (!) from the shop three doors down.
We had lunch at the Nice Etoile before heading back to the hotel. Then I left Ma to rest in the room and went to walk with Gene, Evelyn, Frank and Co. on the Promenade des Anglais. Earl earlier mentioned he'd be soaking up some sun on the beach, which prompted sly grins from many among the group.
We split up at the promenade after we met Grandfather Basil and Grandmother Rita and the McFarlanes. Gene, Evelyn and I headed for McDonald's, then back to the hotel for a nap. Sad news arrived for Shirley, and she had to leave us at this point, needing to fly to San Francisco for personal reasons
Eze
Ma and I were the first down in the lobby at 1800H sharp and I received my first compliments on the new ensemble. Quite the ego-boost there!
We were a little late setting off for the perfume factory at Eze : an "eagle's nest" town perched on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean. The perfumery is that of Fragonard : Ma visited the main factory in Grasse five years ago, and I was allowed to treat myself to a small but respectable selection of perfume. It goes without saying that the bus smelled really good on the way home!
Monaco
Monaco is lovely, but shadowed by the tragic manner of Grace Kelly's death. Grandfather gave me a short lecture on artillery while we lingered at the cannon on the city ramparts. We were lucky to catch the tail end of the changing of the guard as we were lingering in the square.
Earl pointed out various signs on the way up to the palace and was caught not knowing who the patron of the Cathedral was.
"I always call it the church where they (Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly) got married."
Monte Carlo
Arriving at Monte Carlo, Ma thinks Casino clientele has degenerated into a scruffy lot : high-rollers, maybe, but scruffy all the same. It's no longer as elegant as four years ago -- the even have slot machines in the grand salle now, a Las Vegas touch that seems out of place in that pretty building.
To my surprise, I won when I played the slots! Bart acted as cashier, changing the franc coins into notes for me. Poor Grandfather was discovered standing in the one spot where Joe and Maria left him, waiting patiently for a rescue. Grandmother and I located them in the lounge with Frank and Co. and we towed Grandfather to them like a tugboat.
It was the usual "chicken dance" soundtrck on the way home, just as I finished lulling Sylvia with "Little Star". The view out of the bus windows was a perfect romantic atmosphere : soft night air, sparkling lights in the harbor and Promenade.
Nice
From romance to harsh reality with a bump upon arrival in Nice - someone parked bang in the middle of Bart's space! With the hotel so tantalizingly close, we decided to unload in the middle of the road, risking getting caught by the gendarmes, in a display of the true Monte Carlo gambling spirit.
Alas, we got caught; or rather, half the bus got caught, so the bus had to go once round the block and unload at the front of the hotel.
I sneaked a look from the balcony just before turning in, and watched our faithful duo close shop for the day. It's become quite a habit to check on the guys if the view lets me - it gives a feeling of closure to the day.
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 14
Travel Notes
August 24, 1984 - Day 24
ITALY - FRANCE
Florence - Pisa, en route
Maybe the lack of wake-up call when Earl asked for one at 0630H was an omen of things to come? It's raining today, for one thing. Since Earl has never overslept before, the fault had to be the front desk. So for the first time during the entire tour, Earl was last on the bus!
Turned out, he'd been up late last night worrying about all the details of recording expenses and arrangements for the optional tours. He had put his papers aside, planning to get back to them early the next day...famous last words!
The porter knocked him up at 0800H and it took him fully three seconds to realize the time, of which there was just enough to throw his things together and his clothes on - no breakfast!
Bart had been trying to reach his room from the front desk at the same time Earl was chiding the desk clerk from his room, which added to the delay.
Pisa
It's cold here!
Seeing the Leaning Tower and entering the Cathedral is worth the rain, though. Earl took us into the Baptistry and had a man sing out to demonstrate the acoustics. What a fantastic echo effect! I felt my skin prickle with the organ effect, totally unique!
Genoa
Augh! We were lost at least two hours and got ravenously hungry. The heavy rains caused landslide six kilometers out of Genoa! Fortunately no one was hurt, but someone will be missing his garden until spring, that's for sure.
This is where we discovered that the bus leaks! Spare rags were liberally employed and a trash bucket pressed into double duty as bailing implement. We certainly couldn't wait to get out from under that weather!
French/Italian border - Menton
The omen given in Florence came to pass at Menton, with a potential visa snag for various people. Ma and I were meant to have a multiple entry visa for France, but were only given a double-entry visa in Manila! However, we actually enter France three times : Dunkerque, Menton, and from Barcelona. Fortunately, since no one stamped our passports at Dunkerque, we still had double-entry privileges.
But to play safe, everyone with double-entry visas were seated at the rear of the bus, while the Americans were moved up front. Bart also detoured from the main entry checkpoint to a side border crossing where hopefully the guards wouldn't be too finicky.
Naturally,there was traffic. The suspense was excruciating -- Hitchcock couldn't have done better! We were extremely lucky that Grandfather Basil led us in one round of singing after another, which kept all of us looking relaxed (including Earl, the poor man).
Finally we pulled over at the checkpoint. Earl got out. The guard gave the American passports a cursory glance and waved us through. Breaths were held - and the passports didn't get stamped here, either! Joe Silveira took up the cudgels from Grandfather Basil and led us in admiring (quite vocally) the nondescript architecture of a building tilll we were safely inside the border. Once well into France, Bart put on the "chicken dance" music to much applause - our all-purpose victory hymn!
At the rest stop, it was washrooms and moneychangers for the group, hot coffee for Earl and cold beer for Bart before proceeding to Nice.
France - Nice, French Riviera - Hotel Vendome
I love this hotel : must have been here since 1935 if a day. Certainly it looks antebellum! Our room has a balcony overlooking the gateway and the street, with shutters where we can hang the laundry to dry. Ma and I settled for a late dinner at of all places, a McDonald's! It's just one block down from the church we'll be visiting tomorrow morning - what a good thing I remember my elementary French!
On the way back from dinner we met Frank and company (Bertha, Lois, and Angie), who asked if the burgers were all right. Ma and I offered noncommittal opinions, and returned to hotel to find a crisis brewing...
Grandfather gave me a recap after the fuss had died down - it started when Diana's bag found its way into Choy's room. Diana was obviously frantic, and when Earl and Bart returned from dinner, she rounded on the driver. To their credit, the men managed to stay calm while she went on with her tirade. Bart knew the bag was in the hotel, and Earl sat calmly (or a clear approximation thereof) reading the evening paper, sure that the bag would surface. To be sure, even Diana admitted seeing the bag in the lobby! Once Choy and Eddy returned the case resolved itself.
NB : Lucerne doesn't have the smallest elevator (good only for four) -- it's this hotel that beats it out by one. Its official capacity here is four people, but they only let three go up at a time!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 13
Travel Notes
August 23, 1984 - Day 23
ITALY
Rome - Florence
Aloura, another long drive up the autostrada! We stopped at the same PAVESI we used on our way down from Vienna - it was built on both sides of the freeway, with a bridgeway between the two units.
While there, we restocked on munchies and soft drinks. Sometimes I share the drinks with Bart and Earl using "thistle" glasses, which are liqueur-sized tulip glasses that look absolutely charming.
Florence - Motel Agip
Pulled into Florence at around 1400H. Earl proposed group shot at Michelangelo Square, but the group scattered for souvenir shopping and picture-taking before he could get official photographer!
I now could see the value of early morning walks in Rome with Grandfather Basil. The bus couldn't enter Florence proper (left it by the river) and we had to hike to Piazza Santa Croce. On those picture-pretty cobblestones that are murder on shoes. The first stop : a mosaic workshop. The pieces are lovely, but are big and weigh a lot!
Next was a leather shop where we scored two evening bags, one belt for Dad, and an all-around bag for Ma. This meant that at the gold shop all we could do was window shop, and ditto at the jewelry shop where there were lovely accessories at lovelier prices! Francy modelled a lovely leather trench coat that she said was for her boyfriend, which statement drew a lot of ooohs from the men.
On Piazza Santa Croce, where Michelangelo is buried in the Cathedral. We hiked again to Piazza San Giovanni to see the Duomo, and then more shopping! Ma and I went off for gelato. then found a place near the Square to sit watch the people - very Italian, si!
The group re-assembled at 1700H - this time we almost left Gremy, which seemed to surprise no one at all. Grandmother Rita and I led the vanguard to the bus when it was time to get moving. Halfway there my knees were screaming for mercy, but I doggedly kept walking. I managed to collapse only when inside the bus, with apologies to Grandfather for not rising to pipe him aboard properly.
The hotel turned out to be half an hour from Firenze. It's modern and up-to-date!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 12
Travel Notes
August 22, 1984 - Day 22
ITALY
Rome - City Tour
We saw in daylight all the sights of last night; and it has confirmed my initial reaction that the night view is a much better way to meet Rome for the first time. Daylight has a certain edge, a harshness that throws the defects into sharper focus.
We were able to walk into the Colosseum, and when one thinks of all the years it's been standing there...it boggles the mind.
At the Vatican City, Ma and I visited interior of St. Peter's, where I saw my first saint under glass, Pope Pius X. He looks like he just fell asleep, and for some reason his face is black.
There is a major reason to be in St. Peter's by day - while the piazza view awesome at night, the Basilica interior by day is beyond words. To view works of Michelangelo and Bernini in their natural settings is to know a dream come to life! All those magnificent marble figures are breath-taking, in the most literal way, if only because of the angle at which one has to crane one's neck to view them!
At the Sistine Chapel, getting a stiff neck a distinct probability, if one has not developed one after St. Peter's. I never realized till the guide mentioned it, the challenge of getting the perspective and proportions right. In fresco painting, the painters work about two to four feet from the surface of the ceiling. However, frescoes are meant to be viewed from the floor - which is a very long way down, which naturally alters prespective and point of view. Somehow, Michelangelo made it all work out : but then again, his Pieta was a master work accomplished at age 25!
On to the Vatican Museum, where the sensory overload from the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's is nothing to what is in here. The operative phrase would be "antiquities galore", no wonder Rome has always been a "must" for every traveler doing the Grand Tour since the 1700s.
Dinner was a proper dinner in an authentic (they claim) Italian trattoria: a buffet of cold cuts, salad, tuna, omelet, bell peppers in sauce, and watermelon, with vino bianco. We were distributed along two tables on the terrace, lighted up with candles - once some enterprising body found the switch, the electric lights went out and improved the ambiance provided by the light Italian melodies.
Being both young and hungry, I took second helpings of the omelet and watermelon. Basil set the pace and soon the atmosphere was crackling with bonhomie so that by the time the pasta arrived, I managed to tuck away into that with gusto; ditto for the veal scallopine, though others had cried a halt.
That night I made a name for myself as a gourmet/gourmand of the first water. To be fair, the pauses between each course were quite long, so there was enough time to properly digest one's food. Between courses there was music, singing, and good-natured repartee.
Bart came out to check on us and the musicians began "the chicken dance"! Carmen and Yolande dragged him down the steps and made him show us how it was done, thus providing us with several moments of hilarity.
There must have been something in the dessert...because between that and the coffee, Yolande lost her usual restraint and pulled Earl out of his seat for some few bars of slow dancing. Which gave our biddies a lot to cackle gleefully about!
Bart, who had taken a seat at Carmen's table, said it took "13 days, 7 hours, 2 minutes and 15 seconds" for the dam to break. Certainly anyone with any heat sense would have felt the warmth in Earl's face! It was rather encouraging to see that he's definitely a man so in love with his wife, that he can't dance with another woman without blushing, even in the line of duty : after ten years of marriage, mind!
Bart came to visit our table and Basil remarked on my food intake. In keeping with our running gag, Bart claimed the tire over which I was sitting was going flat because of my weight. In response I claimed I didn't know him at all and feigned righteous indignation at his allegation. I made him work to get back into my good graces with"forgiveness" granted over a glass of wine. Then I went and hid the keys to the bus under the table napkin as a parting shot.
Arriving at the hotel, decided to take the merriment to the limit and bussed Earl on the cheek, by way of thanks for a delightful evening. Fortunately, it was well taken. I suspect Earl is used to such "under the influence" actions. Basil remarked that any man who comes to call on me should have his resume and prospects sent to Trinidad for evaluation and approval...this comment was brought on by how Carmen and Jun were matchmaking me to Gene's son. The lad seems personable enough, but it was a very Miles Standish-Priscilla Mullens sort of wooing.
So in keeping with Filipino custom, I "threatened" to make them my wedding sponsors (ha!) and take them for everything they had as wedding gifts.
August 22, 1984 - Day 22
ITALY
Rome - City Tour
We saw in daylight all the sights of last night; and it has confirmed my initial reaction that the night view is a much better way to meet Rome for the first time. Daylight has a certain edge, a harshness that throws the defects into sharper focus.
We were able to walk into the Colosseum, and when one thinks of all the years it's been standing there...it boggles the mind.
At the Vatican City, Ma and I visited interior of St. Peter's, where I saw my first saint under glass, Pope Pius X. He looks like he just fell asleep, and for some reason his face is black.
There is a major reason to be in St. Peter's by day - while the piazza view awesome at night, the Basilica interior by day is beyond words. To view works of Michelangelo and Bernini in their natural settings is to know a dream come to life! All those magnificent marble figures are breath-taking, in the most literal way, if only because of the angle at which one has to crane one's neck to view them!
At the Sistine Chapel, getting a stiff neck a distinct probability, if one has not developed one after St. Peter's. I never realized till the guide mentioned it, the challenge of getting the perspective and proportions right. In fresco painting, the painters work about two to four feet from the surface of the ceiling. However, frescoes are meant to be viewed from the floor - which is a very long way down, which naturally alters prespective and point of view. Somehow, Michelangelo made it all work out : but then again, his Pieta was a master work accomplished at age 25!
On to the Vatican Museum, where the sensory overload from the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's is nothing to what is in here. The operative phrase would be "antiquities galore", no wonder Rome has always been a "must" for every traveler doing the Grand Tour since the 1700s.
Dinner was a proper dinner in an authentic (they claim) Italian trattoria: a buffet of cold cuts, salad, tuna, omelet, bell peppers in sauce, and watermelon, with vino bianco. We were distributed along two tables on the terrace, lighted up with candles - once some enterprising body found the switch, the electric lights went out and improved the ambiance provided by the light Italian melodies.
Being both young and hungry, I took second helpings of the omelet and watermelon. Basil set the pace and soon the atmosphere was crackling with bonhomie so that by the time the pasta arrived, I managed to tuck away into that with gusto; ditto for the veal scallopine, though others had cried a halt.
That night I made a name for myself as a gourmet/gourmand of the first water. To be fair, the pauses between each course were quite long, so there was enough time to properly digest one's food. Between courses there was music, singing, and good-natured repartee.
Bart came out to check on us and the musicians began "the chicken dance"! Carmen and Yolande dragged him down the steps and made him show us how it was done, thus providing us with several moments of hilarity.
There must have been something in the dessert...because between that and the coffee, Yolande lost her usual restraint and pulled Earl out of his seat for some few bars of slow dancing. Which gave our biddies a lot to cackle gleefully about!
Bart, who had taken a seat at Carmen's table, said it took "13 days, 7 hours, 2 minutes and 15 seconds" for the dam to break. Certainly anyone with any heat sense would have felt the warmth in Earl's face! It was rather encouraging to see that he's definitely a man so in love with his wife, that he can't dance with another woman without blushing, even in the line of duty : after ten years of marriage, mind!
Bart came to visit our table and Basil remarked on my food intake. In keeping with our running gag, Bart claimed the tire over which I was sitting was going flat because of my weight. In response I claimed I didn't know him at all and feigned righteous indignation at his allegation. I made him work to get back into my good graces with"forgiveness" granted over a glass of wine. Then I went and hid the keys to the bus under the table napkin as a parting shot.
Arriving at the hotel, decided to take the merriment to the limit and bussed Earl on the cheek, by way of thanks for a delightful evening. Fortunately, it was well taken. I suspect Earl is used to such "under the influence" actions. Basil remarked that any man who comes to call on me should have his resume and prospects sent to Trinidad for evaluation and approval...this comment was brought on by how Carmen and Jun were matchmaking me to Gene's son. The lad seems personable enough, but it was a very Miles Standish-Priscilla Mullens sort of wooing.
So in keeping with Filipino custom, I "threatened" to make them my wedding sponsors (ha!) and take them for everything they had as wedding gifts.
Sunday, June 24, 2007
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 11
Travel Notes
August 21, 1984 - Day 21
ITALY
August 21, 1984 - Day 21
ITALY
Venice - Rome
Yet another long day of driving on the Autostrada/L'Autostrada del Sole - the Highway of the Sun. It is a mystery how Bart gets by on the first three hours of driving on nothing but coffee mixed with six teaspoons of sugar. To be sure, he makes up for it at the stops : but to start the day on nothing but coffee?
I have become quite comfortable in the two seats behind Bart. People seem to have forgotten about the seat rotation rule, and anyway Earl said it was all right. No one seems to want the seat over the tire at the moment, so it looks like it's my "base camp" from now on. Besides, I've been bouncing in that seat since Innsbruck!
Earle tells us that we are set up for an illuminations tour of the Eternal City and warned that the hotel we are getting is not known for its haute cuisine. Ma and I have lots of provisions from the London Safeway, so we should be all right.
Rome - Hotel Ergife Palace
Rome : the Eternal City of seven hills. We have discovered our hotel on the Via Aurelia, four minutes away from the city center.
Just before our illuminations tour, some people mistook our bus for their bus, and when they tried to confirm it with Bart, he would say, "Yes, this is the bus..." and then under his breath "...just not yours." To us, he did point out that it was true as far as it went, that ours was a bus for an illuminations tour, it just wasn't *their* tour!
Once on our way, the Roman Forum was the first stop. Rome at night is a whole different city from Rome at daytime, quiet and serene. the darkness and soft lighting makes a perfect background for musing on the glory that was once imperial Rome.
At the Trevi Fountain one has to throw in the obligatory three coins for luck, love, and a return to Rome. Fortunately the coins didn't have to be Italian, so all the leftover loose change is gone now! I threw coins twice, just to be sure I'd get back...and someone's lucky coins wound up in a woman's cleavage. A very endowed woman's cleavage, at that!
Then onwards to the Piazza Navona, location of (allegedly) "the best ice cream in the world" and the Fountain of Four Rivers by Bernini. Upon sampling the goods, I had to admit that Earl is right : Piazza Navona gelato is *good*!!
Much as I love ice cream, I love Bernini and his works with an equal passion: the Fountain of Four Rivers totally awesome in reality, all the major rivers represented.
Moving on, we took a look at Piazza del Populo and the Victor Emmanuel monument. Piazza San Pietro embodies the true definition of awesome, especially at night. It boggles the mind to stand in that empty plaza and look around at the sheer space of it all -- and contrast when it is full to the gills with people. Our final stop was at the Temple of the Vestal Virgins and the Colosseum (more properly the Flavian Ampitheatre). With a little imagination one could hear the chants of the crowd and roars of wild animals.
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 10
Travel Notes
August 20, 1984 - Day 20
ITALY
August 20, 1984 - Day 20
ITALY
Tarvisio - Monastier,Venice, Park Hotel Villa Fiorita - Venice Proper
I went down early for a walk around the hotel before breakfast, in an effort to burn some excess energy. Left Ma in the room before going to join the group on the excursion to Venice and Burano, which began with a 30-minute drive past several vineyards and a duck farm (“Anyone fancy duck for dinner tonight?“).
Then we arrived at the quay for the motor-launch trip to St. Mark's Square (Piazza San Marco). :s soon as it was possible, Basil, Shirley, Evelyn, the Taiwan girls and I spent the entire trip topside for the better view and fresher air. I have learned from bitter experience that it's no good to keep me below decks while sailing. So being determined to enjoy this adventure to the lees, topside I went!
Venice - Piazza San Marco
The launch landed just a few steps down from St. Mark's Cathedral, where we crossed the Square to get to the trattoria where the glass factory is located. I chatted with the city guide, who seemed surprised with my knowledge of things Venetian. He'd been to Manila and enjoyed the stay.
All of us walked *very* carefully through the display rooms of the glass factory! So many magnificent pieces - especially the chandeliers. You feel almost afraid to breathe on some of the other pieces because of their delicacy, and their glass jewelry looks almost as pretty as the real thing.
Earl managed to get us out of the factory and into the Square for shopping before the launch left for Burano. Our rendezvous point was at the base of the campanile - I tagged along with Basil and Rita like a dutiful granddaughter and we had fun browsing among the stalls.
Burano Island
“Grandfather“ Basil gave me a navigation lesson for most of the trip from St. Mark's, and it was a treat to discover that his first job was as a harbor customs officer. Thus I learned about signal flags and ship's lights and windward and leeward and have now taken to calling Basil “Grandfather Admiral - sir!“ Thankfully he is much amused.
The first thing one notices about Burano is that its campanile also tilts, like that of Pisa!
At lunch, I was seasted with Rita to my right at the head of the table, then going anti-clockwise : Evelyn, Eddie, Basil, Joe and Maria. The menu looked, and was later proven to be delicious - breadsticks for openers, with vino bianco, followed by filet of sole with lemon, sardines, scampi, calamari - and more vino bianco! Needless to say, the taste for white wine I developed in Vienna was now carried forward with utter enjoyment!
As the meal progressed there was lots of laughter, especially when Basil spotted a gentleman at the bar with a grey ensemble of deerstalker cap and Inverness cape - the joke being that Basil was also wearing his own deerstalker (Hunting Stuart plaid) at the time!
The other chap had a look of utter shock...“priceless“ does not begin to describe it. You could practically hear him thinking, “EGAD!! Another one!“
The men were left to linger at the table while the ladies went shopping. I was fascinated by the faucets in the ladies' room: just put your hands under them and then the water comes out, all on its own. Cool!
Burano is famous for lacework, and all the ladies were charmed by the samples of work on display. Carmen, as the most avid shopper, came away with a very pretty table set, and everyone was praising Earl to the skies for the venue and the quality of the lunch.
Venice Proper - Gondola Ride, Grand Canal
Sylvia gave Bart and Earl a real scare by losing herself in St. Mark's : she stopped to take a picture of the campanile and got separated from the group. Bart found her, but then lost her again in the crowd. Eventually she was re-discovered coming out of one of the tiny bargain stores tucked away in a corner of the Square. Earl was visibly breathing easier on the way to the gondola ride.
The gondola ride went over well. The gondolier serenading us did “Santa Lucia“, “O Sole Mio“, and a few more well-known hits. It was interesting to get a view of Venice from sea level, but nevertheless good to get back on dry land.
Back at the Square, had time for last-minute shopping and afternoon tea, where I was introduced to gelato, and enjoyed it with Basil, Rita and Angie.
Tarvisio - Monastier,Venice, Park Hotel Villa Fiorita
Dinner tonight was very, very good - no doubt because we were working within the timetable of the kitchen this time. Evelyn, Shirley, Jun and Carmen, Gene, Frank and Bertha, and I all went on a leisurely walk to digest dinner. Little did we know that we were setting ourselves up for one of the funniest episodes on tour, bar none.
Upon our return, we relaxed for a few moments in the lounge, and then Jun, Carmen, Gene and his wife went to take the elevator. Frank and Bertha had already gone up; when Shirley, Evelyn and I got to the elevator, Maria was sitting in a chair, waiting. She said that Joe, the Nocons, the Galangs and the Jacksons were using the baggage elevator and it wouldn't take them up.
While Evelyn and Shirley went off to one side to talk, I waited with Maria to see what would happen next. The elevator doors opened to disclose the startled faces of the group Maria had earlier enumerated!
I pressed the indicated button at their request. The doors of the elevator doors closed...stayed closed...and opened again on the ground floor! This close/open sequence was repeated about four times and by the fourth occurrence I was helplessly caught in a fit of giggles.
The passengers all spilled out, expressions clearly stating that the lift had been taken over by gremlins - which was the precise moment Bart and Earl chose to come through the lobby.
They took one look at me giving way to my giggles despite valiant efforts to maintain control and *their* faces said they thought I hugh on something. Earl asked if I'd had too much wine, and between gasps I told him the saga.
Bart tried it, and I said, “Hope we *don't* see you back right away,“ which drew a startled look from Earl. Naturally, after all the shenanigans, Bart went straight up and back with no problems at all, and commented : “It's like a woman -- play her too much and she gives you trouble!“
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 9
Travel Notes
August 19, 1984 - Day 19
AUSTRIA - ITALY
August 19, 1984 - Day 19
AUSTRIA - ITALY
Vienna, Austria - Hotel Academia
It was with great cheer that we bid goodbye to the chain-mail beds. The magic of the previous night was still operative, with Sylvia and I tra-la-la-ing Strauss on the way to the bus.
Vienna, Austria - Tarvisio, Italy
Since Lucerne we have been traveling through mountain country and there is so much to see while on the road! Looking up, one notes the reinforced steel, sometimes wooden, structures used to keep rocks and stones off the highway. There are highway signs that tell you to beware of : deer, stray falling rocks, pheasant and even cows!
There were no problems at the border, and the dollar exchange very good from the American point of view. At 1500 lira to a US dollar, we're all millionaires now, or at least we feel like we are! However, one million lire is not exactly a lot when a can of Coke costs 3000 lire...still, even with such prices, Italy appears to have a thriving economy. We also saw the first signs of littering since we left London.
Tarvisio - Monastier/Venice, Park Hotel Villa Fiorita
Augh. such a very long drive today! And that was even before discovering that Bart had the wrong directions to the hotel - or maybe it was the wrong hotel for the directions, who knew? Between them it's a matter of pride for Earl and Bart to get us to the hotel while the sun is still up, but they had no such luck today.
Long story short, we arrived at quarter past eight in the evening. We'd stopped to ask directions, and I'm not sure Carmen helped any by going up to the bus door and trying out her broken Italian.
We found the hotel by going to a bus station, letting Earl off to take a cab, and then following the cab to the hotel. Which was the good news. But at 25,000 lire for a cab? Mamma mia!
However, the hotel is not without its consolations : the bedroom is lovely, with a balcony that opens out to the garden and villa below.
There was “vera cuccina italiana“ for dinner : pasta, veal, ham, and still more pasta! Really yummy stuff. Some tour members went silly, asking for spaghetti when there was a perfectly good white sauce on top of the pasta - argh!
Sunday, June 17, 2007
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 8
Travel Notes
August 18, 1984 - Day 18
AUSTRIA
August 18, 1984 - Day 18
AUSTRIA
Vienna, Austria
A bit of a rude awakening. Over breakfast we compared impressions re the rooms' size (small and narrow) and the beds. (HARD!!)
At the risk of having my words given a malicious slant by the biddies in the group, I wondered aloud if ours was a twin bed, how big were the single beds assigned to Earl and Bart? Because the idea of room being any smaller than those of the twin-sharing people have boggles the mind.
I have resolved to stop listing conversion rates and expenses. There are far too many of them to track!
Vienna, Austria - City Tour
I nodded almost constantly throughout guide's commentary, and stared like a provincial at all the sights. Seriously, I could hardly tell where to put my eyes, it seemed like we passed a point of interest every hundred yards or so.
The guide seemed to be quite appreciative of all the audience reactions she got from me, and says I'm very well-read. Serves me right for reading the Time-Life books thoroughly before leaving home!
Vienna Woods, Austria
From the city to the countryside, specifically the Weinerwald or Vienna Woods. We changed guides, and entered into wine country.
We were taken to the world's largest underground lake, the Seegrotte. It was formed by underground spring and river flooding out a gypsum mine.
Begad, but it was COLD in the tunnels. Very atmospheric, the perfect background to learn that Hitler used the place to develop the Messerschmidt engines for the Luftwaffe during WWII. Buried under the earth, it's really quite the perfect place for secret research!
Once back in the light of day, stopped by the ancestral house of the Liechtenstein family. Yes, *that * Liechtenstein family. They own a thin and narrow castle, but very impressive for all that. As we were touring the castle perimeter, we were asked to note that the toilet open out over the kitchen vegetable garden -- instant fertilizer!
Onward to the oldest Cistercian monastery in Austria, if not the world. It is as perfect a place for prayer as could be desired -- lovely, classic architecture, peaceful and serene.
In a place of honor in an alcove beside the prayer walk was a beautiful statue of the Virgin that looks as if posed naturally on first glance. She's carrying the Christ Child in her arms.
As the youngest and theoretically the most flexible member of the group, I was clled upon to recreate the pose, as per directions from our guide. Turns out, the psoe is not natural at all! One's knees must bend, the torso is slightly turned, and the neck is inclined forward. Hard to describe accurately, but I assure you that it hurts to hold it for more than several seconds!
The reason for this difficult pose? To illustrate the mystery of the Virgin Birth : the impossible becoming possible. For myself, I pity the model, whoever she was! It must have been excruciating to pose!
Vienna, Austria - Hungarian Dinner
I managed to generate some comment when I came down dressed to the nines for the optional night out. A pretty dress, heeled shoes, and make-up, even. Dinner was Hungarian goulash with pasta and white wine, and I am getting to like white wine with a vengeance! I was seated with the rest of the ladies at one table and the guide, Earl and Bart at the other; all good-looking men, mind and therefore a treat to observe.
There were, naturally, Hungarian musicians with the dinner . “The best in Vienna!“ as per the tour guide. Their repertoire consisted of slow pieces and requests, a goodly selection. Bart suggested that Sylvia and I request “the Chicken Dance“, of all things, which suggestion was overturned vehemently!
By coincidence, Frank and Bertha, taking the evening at leisure, walked into the same restaurant we were in!
It was certainly the wine talking when I asked Earl to lend me his arm up the stairs and across the road to the bus, but on the other hand, I did have heeled shoes : not a good time to have an accident!
Vienna, Austria -- the Kursalon
Much to my surprise and delight, the city guide led me out to open the dancing! Amazing, me with two left feet and never having waltzed before. The guide was charming and put me at ease quickly enough, and then had another dance with Jun Galang. I was urged to ask Earl on to the floor, but he begged off with claims the he couldn't dance. Bart retorted that *he* was saving energy for the bus!
Vienna, Austria the Prater Wheel
The Prater is the largest ferris wheel I've ever seen. It was made famous in the movie “The Third Man“, and is a HUGE contraption, slow and sedate, and allowing a marvelous view of Vienna from the top.
Among the married couples and those with more experience of life, there was a very lively discussion on the possibilities open for a couple stuck at the top. This is easily understood when one realizes that the carriages are like train coaches, with benches to either side. Apparently there used to be curtains in the carriages, per guide, but these were removed as potential fire hazards -- no doubt they also made things very conducive for romance as well!
Once again, the guide used me as a prop for the demonstration on how to kiss a lady's hand. There are, apparently, varying degrees, depending on the level of intimacy a man hopes to establish.
Once we were back at the hotel, I thanked the guide with a kiss on the cheek for a memorable evening - my first waltzing partner, and in Vienna, too!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 7
Travel Notes
August 17, 1984 - Day 17
AUSTRIA - GERMANY - AUSTRIA
August 17, 1984 - Day 17
AUSTRIA - GERMANY - AUSTRIA
Innsbruck - Austro/German border - Salzburg
Today, Bart worked a “scam“ on the border guards. The situation was that most of us had single-entry visas for Austria. However, the optimal bus route from Innsbruck to Salzburg had to cross Germany. Basically, we had to exit Austria - enter Germany - exit Germany - and re-enter Austria. On single-entry visas.
Getting out of Austria and into Germany was the easy part. Getting out of Germany and into Austria had us holding our breaths for several moments, and looking out the windows on the side of the bus opposite the border crossing! Only Bart went down, and behind the cover of his tinted glasses, declared - with what I presume was a poker face - that all the bus passengers were Dutch (!!!!!)
As it happened, we didn't need to have our passports inspected, the border guards nodded and waved us through. Loud were the sighs of relief when Bart returned to the bus, but as we were pulling out, Bart reminded Earl to warn us to keep our eyes front and center and not to look back.
The moment were were out of earshot, Earl explained the whole thing. It was interesting to see Carmen have a blonde moment and be bit slow to catch on...when she did, I had to smother a snort. Pity she rubs me up the wrong way.
It was no surprise that “Chicken Dance“ (official group theme song) was played over the speakers as our victory hymn, and humor was the order of the day for the rest of our time on the road!
Salzburg, Austria
This ties with Liechtenstein as the shortest visit ever - only thirty minutes! The problem was that there was no place to park the bus, so Earl took us on a brisk walk down the main square and into little alleys with everyone sticking close to each other.
We did get to see the castle from a (fairly great) distance. Mr. Silveira (Joe) provided the trivia information that “The Sound of Music“ wasn't wholly filmed in Salzburg, contrary to the press releases.
Vienna, Austria - Hotel Academia
What with the “forced march“ through Salzburg, we pulled into Salzburg early in the evening. I was singing to myself when I looked through the rear window and screeched off key in the middle of a song. Framed perfectly in the window was my first sight of Schonbrunn Palace - which fact was duly announced in a breathless squawk.
Earl glanced up from studying street map to smile, “Now we all know where we are, eh?“ Oh, YES.
While the hotel itself was easily found, actually disembarking from the bus was not. The detours because of street diggings were as familiar as driving through Manila on a bad day, and delayed our arrival by a quarter hour!
Friday, June 15, 2007
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 6
Travel Notes
August 16, 1984 - Day 16
SWITZERLAND - LIECHTENSTEIN - AUSTRIA
August 16, 1984 - Day 16
SWITZERLAND - LIECHTENSTEIN - AUSTRIA
Lucerne, Switzerland - Vaduz, Liechtenstein
The “Chicken Dance“ was played, and danced to, at regular intervals en route. To while away the long drive, there was also an impromptu talent show organized by Carmen, who refused to set a good example and join in herself. By some bit of good luck, I managed to win USD5 for singing “Is Love A Game“. Earl scored 10 points out of 10 for me, ditto for Lois. Bart said 15 points for me if the song was dedicated to him, 5 if not...I retorted that the song was dedicated to both him *and* Earl and scored 10 points as well.
Though I do believe I never saw that money - it was diverted, I think, to some common fund or whatever. Hmp.
Vaduz, Liechtenstein
Liechtenstein is, arguably, the most “drive-through” of all the countries in Europe. It is one of two principalities in Europe, the other being Monaco. Vaduz, capital of Liechtenstein, looks like any small Bavarian town, which is not surprising, since the Liechtenstein family purchased the land from Austria after complicated arrangements with the government.
We had a quickie of a “city orientation” here; basically “Here's the main street, and the important buildings are all on it...” type of thing. Importantly, it was the last stop for shopping using Swiss francs. We must change to Austrian money after the border, less than half an hour away.
St. Christoph Am Arlberg - Austria
From Leichtenstein, the road climbed steadily upward towards our lunch stop at St. Christoph Am Arlberg. Arl=name of mountain; Berg=mountain. Put the two together, along with the name of St. Christopher, patron of travelers, and you have a most hopeful place name.
It was COLD!! when we were allowed to get off the bus. Alas, in the general rush for the door (first to get to the washroom wins, yay!) I left my overcoat in the bus!! Thus had to shiver my way through the lunch line. Smart girl!
Bart recommended goulash soup, which was so very good, I went back for refill. Actually, goulash the only item on the menu as far as soup was concerned - a house specialty, perhaps. Took a stroll outside after lunch, and it was pointed out that St. Christoph has a hospice for the terminally ill, with a very pretty view. I totally agree that one can't get better than the Austrian Alps to look at when one is feeling low. The clear mountain air goes straight to one's toes when you breathe, and is said to have cured many with lung problems.
Innsbruck, Austria - Tourotel
From the heights of the Alps, to the flat contours of Innsbruck, where it showered on us as we arrived at the city limits. The local police had us going in circles to find the rear entrance of the hotel because front entrance was a one-way/no parking zone! So it was decided to drop us off at the first legal stop, and Bart would take care of the baggage while Earl walked us to see the “Golden Roof“ of the Emperor Maximilian, straight down and to the left from the front entrance.
Dinner was a hilarious affair. We had only one very sweet, very handsome waiter to serve all our tables. Main course was...hold your breath...chicken again! (Like we were expecting something else? Chicken is the culinary leitmotif of this tour.) Diana (of infamous Cologne fame) sent the waiter off to the kitchen for dessert spoons when the strudel arrived. While he went off to do her bidding, she hid the dessert in the bread basket, under the cloth, while waiter was gone.
When waiter came back with the spoons, Diana claimed he took so long, she had eaten the strudel (which was pretty good, if I may say so). The look on his face! A perfect Kodak moment, absolutely priceless. Diana did reveal the strudel sitting innocently in the bread basket, and the waiter gave her an exasperated/flirtatious kind of look. I think she ought to have slipped a nice tip under the bread basket to make it up to the poor boy.
While getting ready for bed, the sound of happy music floated up to our room, and I looked out the window to see a marching band passing beneath us on the way to a concert in the plaza. Nice way to end the day!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 5
Travel Notes
August 15, 1984 - Feast of the Assumption - Day 15
SWITZERLAND
August 15, 1984 - Feast of the Assumption - Day 15
SWITZERLAND
Lucerne
Since the morning was at leisure, Ma and I strolled along Lake Lucerne and managed to find a church, and so heard early morning Mass for Assumption Day. Surprisingly, it was easy to follow along, even if the words were all in German!
After the Mass, we had a brisk walk following yesterday's route. We crossed the modern bridge and visited the Luzernerhof hotel where Ma and Dad stayed in 1979. Then we went to Hofstetter and picked up more souvenirs (of course). Then we walked by the lake down to Bucherer : got a necklace, gold and silver plated links, and then met Earl and Bart at the door of Bucherer, waiting for those who wanted to hitch a ride back to the hotel - a fortuitous piece of timing on our part.
Let it be noted that Earl has the skill of a Navy minesweeper getting everyone out of the store; the man can *whistle*! I think he should use it more often in calling the folks, since some of the older women are a stubborn lot about timing while set loose in a store.
Mt. Stanserhorn
Once it was determined that everyone was out of Bucherer, we collected the rest of the group from the hotel and were whisked to the foot of Mt. Stanserhorn. We arrived at top of the mountain via funicular railway and cable car, just in time for lunch - and lunch was delicious! Mountain air sharpens the appetite, definitely. It must be the brisk, cold air current up the sides of the mountain. There was a Boy Scout troop from England performing an open-air concert on the terrace. I later learned that they were part of an exchange program, and off to Germany tomorrow.
Ma and I climbed trail up to the peak, or rather, I climbed the trail up to the peak. Ma stopped at the halfway point, which was the hang-glider takeoff point. I moved on to the peak, and the view from 6300 feet is something to see, especially on day when the sky was crystal clear and not a speck of cloud anywhere. Apparently the hang-gliders were inspired, waving and hallo-ing to everyone down below.
Returning with Ma back down to the main level, I went to coffee shop to scout souvenirs, ending up with a little brooch made up of mountain climber gear - pickaxe, rope, and boots, and a sprig of edelweiss over all. While waiting for cable car, “Grandfather“ Basil gave me a lesson on the Horse Guards and the Foot Guards, explaining the nuances of uniform button coding as a means of identifying each brigade.
Lucerne
Tonight was our first optional dinner of the tour. We learned the “chicken dance“ on the bus en route to dinner venue, where Joe was roped into blowing the Alpenhorn and did very well. There was lasagna in very generous servings, and I drank my first glass of white wine tonight. Even to my inexperienced taste buds, it was very good and went well with all the rich food on the table. At 2230H the company was asked to step out onto the terrace to catch fireworks display marking opening of the Lucerne International Music Festival. Fantastic stuff, the clear night making it seem as if you could touch the huge blooms and blossoms against the night sky.
We were a very merry group that boarded the bus when it was time to return to the hotel. Bart played “chicken dance“ song in the bus again, and Grandfather Basil did the dance in the aisle! Grandmother Rita made some reproachful noises, but all in good fun.
It's a lucky thing we have a late departure tomorrow!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 4
Travel Notes
August 14, 1984 - Day 14
GERMANY - SWITZERLAND
August 14, 1984 - Day 14
GERMANY - SWITZERLAND
Mannheim - Triberg, Germany
We arrived at Triberg for lunch and shopping, right in the middle of the Black Forest. With all the local restaurants crowded, Ma and I headed for nearest grocery store and loaded up on fresh fruit, ice cream and cookies. All of this made for a fine meal eaten al fresco, with the scent of the pines heavy on the occasional breeze.
Scored an interesting victory at the souvenir shop, where Ma got a certified Black Forest clock, I got a teddy bear for DM12. Teddy was supposed to cost DM12.25 with the “Tour Director” discount, but I only had DM12.22 to hand. I guess it must have been something in my face when I offered to put back the bear, because all of a sudden the saleslady took off the .22! This produced smiles all around, and I have come up with Teddy's full name : Earl Edward Martin von Schaffhausen-Schwennigen!
This grand list of names for such a tiny creature comes about in this manner:
== “Earl“ - after the tour manager : without discount, Teddy's list price was DM13++
== “Edward“ - full Christian name of “Teddy“
== “Martin“ - for Martin Nievera
== “Schaffhausen“ - the first town after Triberg
== “Schwennigen“ - a place that we've seen on every Banhof sign from the start of the Black Forest boundary, but that we've not seen so far
So. I have a mascot!
Lucerne, Switzerland - Hotel Alpina
We had a photo stop at the Rhine Falls, located near Schaffhausen. Spectacular views, and there was actually a stairs for people who wanted to get up close and personal with the rushing waters. Unfortunately, there was no time for any of us to try it out, so after taking pictures and having our oohs and aahs lost in the roar of the water, we set off for Lucerne, with a brief nod to Zurich along the way.
We arrived in Lucerne after banking hours, and since Feast of the Assumption is a bank holiday (fancy that, it's just an ordinary day in Manila), we changed money at the Banhof station. Then Earl took us on a walking tour of Lucerne (or Luzern, as the locals spell it). I managed to have quite a nice chat with Earl as we crossed the famous covered bridge, the Kappellbrucke, over Lake Lucerne; he moved us down various side streets and we then ended at the Bucherer store, which would be staying open till midnight. Many women were mightily pleased at this information - you could see people calculating budgets in their heads.
Ma and I headed straight for the top floor and Ma got herself a watch; I was too busy enjoying the sight of the merchandise to think about getting anything for myself. Eventually, Ma, Truding and Josefina wanted to leave before the rest of the group, so Bart deputised me as assistant guide back to the hotel. Not that it was going to be a complicated matter. The directions were easy enough to follow, all straight lines for the most part - straight down the bridge, down two corners, turn left, straight down the street, and there you go.
This hotel has *small* elevator : maximum of four people!! Probably one of the smallest on tour to date. One thing about traveling in Europe, you never know what the hotels will offer from one destination to the next!
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 3
Travel Notes
August 13, 1984 - Day 13
HOLLAND - GERMANY
August 13, 1984 - Day 13
HOLLAND - GERMANY
Amsterdam, Holland - Euromotel E.9
An early wake-up call found many of the group members gathered in the lounge to watch the closing ceremonies of the Olympics, which was an impressive sight. Some of the group had gone in to breakfast early, and tried to smuggle out some makeshift sandwiches, however these “smugglers“ were caught and had to eat what they had wrapped as penance. Ma and I managed to get away with the same tactic, having arrived after this mass movement to convert the buffet into take-away: two slices of ham into a croissant, the whole bundled into my overcoat pocket (not without pangs of guilt, mind you).
Earl mentioned at the foyer and on the bus that we weren't to think that today's breakfast was the real Continental service, and that we'd actually been spoilt by the hotel by the variety of foods available at the buffet.
Amsterdam, Holland - Cologne, Germany
There was a great deal of good-natured banter all the way to Cologne about who came in late from the red-light district last night; everyone knows everyone else's name now. When Earl brought up the subject of the optional Rhine cruise, he met with universal agreement from the group.
At the border stop, we were let out to change money and use the washrooms. Since the comfort room for the ladies was crowded, the OIC (an ex-prison matron, for sure) sent some of the women into the *men's* room! As is the custom in Europe, we had to pay a nominal fee for the use of the washrooms. I guess this is for the upkeep and augments the salary of the “Madame”. Back in Brussels, though, we women used the tactic of one coin, taking turns keeping the door open upon exiting from the stall, while the “Madame” was occupied elsewhere.
We pulled into Cologne with strict instructions about getting back to the bus within two hours, so that we could catch the 1330H Rhine River cruise. That meant very little time to check out the cathedral and have lunch. The cathedral, we were told, was very nearly the only structure left standing after the carpet-bombings of World War II. The Allied pilots were under strict orders to spare the church and its beautiful twin spires - such an obvious landmark!
Ma and I literally nipped into the Cathedral and kept to the main aisle. One quick look at the vaulted ceiling and the stained glass windows; then out to the closest place to get a fast meal - the local McDonald's! I practiced my basic German with modest success, and we made an al fresco meal of it, watching all the people go by. Then, after bolting down our meal and a quick trip to the washrooms, we got ourselves back on the bus.
Unfortunately, this is where it was discovered that two of our Taiwanese girls were missing. When Diana and Francy didn't show up after more than 15 minutes, everyone on the bus started worrying about where they could have gone. We were not to know until later that Diana decided she wanted a panoramic view of Cologne, so she climbed up the cathedral spire (!!) to get it, dragging unwilling Francy along with her for company. On their way down, Diana got totally disoriented and couldn't find her way back to the bus!
Earl, bless him, was *extremely* calm about the whole situation. There was no lack of volunteer effort to help him find the lost ones; Frank, Basil, Joe and Keith offered their services to help search the square, rightly reasoning that there would be better progress with more of them involved in the search. Earl went off with Basil while Bart took the rest of us, round the block in the bus. After completing one full circuit, Earl arrived with Diana and Francy, who was weeping in embarrassment as the bus heaved a collective sigh of relief and clucked in disapproval, There were cooing sounds of consolation for Francy, profuse with apologies from underneath her overcoat; while Diana could hardly say a word and thus got hardly any sympathy at all on the way down to the Rhine.
Rhine River Cruise - St. Goar - Koblenz
Naturally, we missed the first boat. We did manage to get on the 1500H boat, thanks to providence and some persuasiveness from Earl's end. After all the excitement, it was a lovely afternoon on the river. My favorite spot, strangely enough, was not the Lorelei Rock. It was the little church that actually had a working pub attached to it - one presumes that after the good dominee gave thundering sermons, the men would then sink into contemplation over their steins of lager beer.
Earl spent most of the cruise solacing himself with a bottle of delicious Rhine wine belowdecks. Naturally, as tour director, it was supposed to be his quiet time; but everyone took turns helping him unwind, and it wasn't long before his soft chuckles filled the room as folks commended him on his calm way of handling things.
We disembarked at St. Goar, re-boarded the bus to follow the Rhine banks past Koblenz, which is German for “confluence“. It's the point where the Rhine and Moselle Rivers meet, and just a little distance from Mannheim, where we would be spending the night.
Mannheim, Germany - Novotel
Earl had us on the lookout for the hotel, and no sooner had the words left his mouth when Bart turned into the driveway. Basil, Joe and I took a little time to thank Bart for playing “Hooked on Classics“ on the drive down to Mannheim - one of my personal favorites in music. This was the point where Bart managed to mellow out enough to mingle and crack a few jokes before we were called in to dinner.
Dinner : chicken, again! But served hot and with generous sidings, so not a disappointment after a long day.
For the record, this hotel serves *humungous* dessert cups! At least a quarter-kilo of ice-cream in each cup - no, *bowl* is more like it - and that doesn't even include the syrup and barquillos. Shirley, Evelyn, Ma and I watched the waitress go by with TWO, and burst into giggles as our eyes met; we had seen the generously-built German man who had ordered one, and marvelled at his capacity. Serious thought was given to buying one and sharing, but the suspected calorie count was formidable, so we discarded that notion.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 2
Travel Notes
August 12, 1984 - Day 12
BELGIUM - HOLLAND/NETHERLANDS
Brussels, Belgium - Hotel Bedford
I had called Dad to let him know that we were on the Continent, and I had just hung up from reassuring him we were okay when I heard a *thump* in the bathroom, and the sound of someone moaning. Dashing into the bathroom, I discovered that Ma began the day by slipping in the bathtub and knocking her chin on its edge! @__@
It was nothing serious, fortunately, just a huge scare for both of us. It was my first encounter with different shower controls : shower here is nothing like the Royal National. Apparently Ma had been trying to adjust controls when she slipped. Her hip was a little sore, but we managed to make it to breakfast and on the bus in good time.
Brussels, Belgium - Amsterdam, Holland
It was an uneventful drive through the countryside, not looking at its best under cloudy skies and showers. Saw my first windmills after we crossed the Dutch border, and went through the center of town until we stopped at Coster Diamonds in Amsterdam. Here, we were bidden down from the coach, and literally locked into the display room, where learned about the different grades of diamonds. I was teased that my eyes had the same sparkle as Top Wesselton stones - I maintain that once you have seen the sparkle of real diamonds, you cannot be satisfied with anything less. And while size matters, a small, fiery stone trumps a large, dull stone any day.
Coster Diamonds nearly the twin of the London Diamond Centre, and was the company charged with the cleaving of the raw Cullinan diamond into the Cullinan collection, some stones of which are now part of the British Crown Jewels.
Some folks were lucky enough to have the money to buy jewelry; Ma and I had to content ourselves with looking at the displays until we were allowed out of the store.
Amsterdam - Volendam, Holland
From diamonds to fish...we arrived at Volendam in time for lunch, and not a moment too soon, as there were those of us who were *starving*. Earl recommended smoked eel for the adventurous diners; the people who wanted to walk around the town and find their own tables. Otherwise, for the truly hungry, lunch was at Volendam's main hotel, located on the shore of the Ijsselmeer Lake -- a sea lake, apparently!
I remember ordering open-faced sandwiches for Ma and myself, and we discovered that the Dutch serve food generously! What arrived at the table was a literal mountain of bread, salad, and cold cuts per person. That we actually managed to stuff the lot down only proved that we were hollow from the feet up after the long drive.
Afternoon at leisure : Mama and I joined Shirley and Evelyn Ong for a walk past charming cottages and a welcome breath of fresh lakeside air. During this time, we spent leftover loose change so as not to have any extra weight at the border stop. We also got acquainted with Jun Galang and Gene Nocon from San Diego. Quite a groovy pair, those two - and if their humor was somewhat of the racy variety, well. One makes allowances for certain things while travelling.
Amsterdam - Euromotel E.9
We piled into the coach and left Volendam at 5.00PM, returning through the main part of Amsterdam. Earl pointed out Dam Square and the road to the red-light district (and blushed!) while various racy comments circulated around the coach. Basil Jackson (from Trinidad) said it was the hallmark of a British public (read, "private) school education for a young man's face to redden at the mention of such things.
Blushing certainly becomes Earl, I must say. It's rare to find a man as competent/confident as he seems to be, coloring up at the mention of the red-light district, which I am sure he has pointed out any number of times in his career as a tour director.
He warned everyone that breakfast is at 0730H tomorrow, and the bus was scheduled to leave at 0800H promptly, with or without its full complement of passengers, which comment engendered more racy commentary, nudges and winks.
I would have liked to join the group, but the hotel is too far from the city centre to manage a walk back to the hotel by myself. The idea was that the Tour Director would lead the party into the red-light district, and then give directions to catch the public transport back to the hotel upon leading the party out. Not the kind of arrangement that would sit well with Ma, especially that everyone else was practically strangers. So, no red-light district.
However, hotel is right next to the river Amstel, and there's a good breeze blowing in : will have a slow walk after dinner instead, and enjoy the view of the river traffic till it's time to get back to the room!
August 12, 1984 - Day 12
BELGIUM - HOLLAND/NETHERLANDS
Brussels, Belgium - Hotel Bedford
I had called Dad to let him know that we were on the Continent, and I had just hung up from reassuring him we were okay when I heard a *thump* in the bathroom, and the sound of someone moaning. Dashing into the bathroom, I discovered that Ma began the day by slipping in the bathtub and knocking her chin on its edge! @__@
It was nothing serious, fortunately, just a huge scare for both of us. It was my first encounter with different shower controls : shower here is nothing like the Royal National. Apparently Ma had been trying to adjust controls when she slipped. Her hip was a little sore, but we managed to make it to breakfast and on the bus in good time.
Brussels, Belgium - Amsterdam, Holland
It was an uneventful drive through the countryside, not looking at its best under cloudy skies and showers. Saw my first windmills after we crossed the Dutch border, and went through the center of town until we stopped at Coster Diamonds in Amsterdam. Here, we were bidden down from the coach, and literally locked into the display room, where learned about the different grades of diamonds. I was teased that my eyes had the same sparkle as Top Wesselton stones - I maintain that once you have seen the sparkle of real diamonds, you cannot be satisfied with anything less. And while size matters, a small, fiery stone trumps a large, dull stone any day.
Coster Diamonds nearly the twin of the London Diamond Centre, and was the company charged with the cleaving of the raw Cullinan diamond into the Cullinan collection, some stones of which are now part of the British Crown Jewels.
Some folks were lucky enough to have the money to buy jewelry; Ma and I had to content ourselves with looking at the displays until we were allowed out of the store.
Amsterdam - Volendam, Holland
From diamonds to fish...we arrived at Volendam in time for lunch, and not a moment too soon, as there were those of us who were *starving*. Earl recommended smoked eel for the adventurous diners; the people who wanted to walk around the town and find their own tables. Otherwise, for the truly hungry, lunch was at Volendam's main hotel, located on the shore of the Ijsselmeer Lake -- a sea lake, apparently!
I remember ordering open-faced sandwiches for Ma and myself, and we discovered that the Dutch serve food generously! What arrived at the table was a literal mountain of bread, salad, and cold cuts per person. That we actually managed to stuff the lot down only proved that we were hollow from the feet up after the long drive.
Afternoon at leisure : Mama and I joined Shirley and Evelyn Ong for a walk past charming cottages and a welcome breath of fresh lakeside air. During this time, we spent leftover loose change so as not to have any extra weight at the border stop. We also got acquainted with Jun Galang and Gene Nocon from San Diego. Quite a groovy pair, those two - and if their humor was somewhat of the racy variety, well. One makes allowances for certain things while travelling.
Amsterdam - Euromotel E.9
We piled into the coach and left Volendam at 5.00PM, returning through the main part of Amsterdam. Earl pointed out Dam Square and the road to the red-light district (and blushed!) while various racy comments circulated around the coach. Basil Jackson (from Trinidad) said it was the hallmark of a British public (read, "private) school education for a young man's face to redden at the mention of such things.
Blushing certainly becomes Earl, I must say. It's rare to find a man as competent/confident as he seems to be, coloring up at the mention of the red-light district, which I am sure he has pointed out any number of times in his career as a tour director.
He warned everyone that breakfast is at 0730H tomorrow, and the bus was scheduled to leave at 0800H promptly, with or without its full complement of passengers, which comment engendered more racy commentary, nudges and winks.
I would have liked to join the group, but the hotel is too far from the city centre to manage a walk back to the hotel by myself. The idea was that the Tour Director would lead the party into the red-light district, and then give directions to catch the public transport back to the hotel upon leading the party out. Not the kind of arrangement that would sit well with Ma, especially that everyone else was practically strangers. So, no red-light district.
However, hotel is right next to the river Amstel, and there's a good breeze blowing in : will have a slow walk after dinner instead, and enjoy the view of the river traffic till it's time to get back to the room!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)