Sunday, September 2, 2007

[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 23

Travel Notes
September 2, 1984 - Day 33
ENGLAND - UNITED STATES

London, England - The Royal National Hotel

Grandfather Basil caught up with us in the lobby, ditto for Mr. Nocon, Thelma and her husband, Eddie, too. We all had a nice chat with Keith Totilo, the owner/manager of Eurobout, wherein we praised Earl and Bart to the skies. Keith is utterly charming and good-humored, lots of experience as a Tour Manager and claims to have brought a woman on a tour of London -- and she didn't even have a passport! Turns out he's related to Earl, who happens to be the son of his half-brother : charm runs in the family, obviously!

end of travel diary 1984

[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 22

Travel Notes
September 1, 1984 - Day 32
FRANCE - ENGLAND

Paris, France - Hotel Ibis

Early rise and shine for the trip to Dunkirk, where we catch the boat back to Ramsgate. Lots of addresses were collected, including Earl and Bart's mailing addresses. We filled out evaluation forms to rate their performance, both Ma and I had the same answers, even though we filled out the forms separately. I gave the thank-you letters to Earl and Bart along with the evaluation forms, then bounced off to attend to last minute packing details.

Paris - Dunkirk : coffee stop

We finished the rest room stop within the 20 minutes allotted - a first! This despite LONG line leading to the ladies room. I saw Earl read thank-you note on the bus; he sent me a smile and said it was much appreciated! I think certainly he deserves it, and all the encouragement he can get - it's like being a doctor -- on call throughout the tourist season.

An hour into the trip, Mr. Nocon presented Bart's tip and made a speech, then Grandfather Basil added a few bon mots of his own, and then led us in a filksing to the tune of "Auld Lang Syne", the sole lyrics being "Green leaves, there are/Green leaves, there are/Green leaves, there are green leaves...". At the port entrance, Bart kissed my cheeks, European style "for luck, a safe journey, and speedy return". Before long, there was a last-minute, spur of the moment photo session with Bart - "22 days we had, and this only now?!" he exclaimed, acceeded with good grace and enjoyed it as much as we did.

Of course, after all the days of recording the mileage for Grandfather Basil, I forgot to take down the final reading in the general excitement! Augh!

Dunkirk - Ramsgate, England : on the ferry, disembarkation

Au revoir to the continent and hallo to a quiet crossing and an excellent lunch. Francy and I met on deck and were joined by Grandfather, who, while walking us up and down the deck, ran into the rest of the granddaughters and Evelyn. Then back inside for some talk and duty-free shopping. Earl distributed his extra purchases around among us so he could get them past customs. We teased him about having to remember who were holding his bags, or face losing them forever!

Ramsgate - London ; en route

What a noisy ride it was from Ramsgate up to London! When, during a lull, Truding called for "the Chicken Dance" and Diana sighed, "No Bart, no Chicken Dance," Earl produced a cassette from his bag and had our new driver play it. From the moment I heard the first few bars, I *knew* it was Bart's original tape -- and let everyone know it as well! As the music played, lots of hopeful plans were spawned. One of the best was Diana's plan to open a Chinese restaurant in Jeddah (!!) where Grandfather would be the doorman, Joe and Rita would be the manager and cashier, respectively. Jun would be the "Moulin Rouge" dancer!

Earl's tip was presented as we neared London, and Grandfather Basil did the job with flair and panache. He also suggested Eurobout install toilets in their buses, where no one had to pay a single pence, pfennig, schilling, mark, lira, or any other form of currency, which concept was received with much applause from all!

London - The Royal National Hotel

Our last wait for Earl while he checked our rooms and made breakfast arrangements. After all the merriment on the bus, we were quite subdued - then, as we all piled out onto the sidewalk, the champagne from last night, finally went to my head and I bussed Earl's cheek as I got the hotel forms and breakfast cards. This was witnessed by Taiwanese granddaughters and many ooohs and ahhhs were heard, with Diana encouraged to follow my example, and suddenly, everyone was hugging and kissing everyone else!

[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 21

Travel Notes
August 31, 1984 - Day 31
FRANCE

Paris - City Tour

Alors...what does one do on a marvelous morning in Paris? Mais naturellement, one goes for a walk with Grandfather Basil, of course, to talk about everything under the sun. Next on the agenda is a hearty (?!) Continental breakfast. City tour next avec une vraie, une tres jolie Parisienne is our city guide. I made it a point to mention how entertaining she was, when we met Earl for lunch! Then there was the chance to shop at Galeries Lafayette and Les Printemps, with everyone loaded to the gills with Paris clothes and souvenirs by the end of it. Such very, very interesting comparisons of who bought what, for how much, and where!

Versailles

Finally, we got our "class picture" in front of the King's Balcony, and I am going to get the autographs of my personal favorites as soon as the picture comes out. Oh dear, I didn't realize Frank was behind me, so all you can see is his hat!

Versailles is an interesting place -- like Hampton Court, the place is shadowed by the tragic fate of its last queen; at least we didn't meet Marie Antoinette's ghost walking through the gardens or the hallways! We did get to see the state bedroom and a lovely official portrait of her with her four children - I never knew she had four; and how hard it had to be to give birth to a royal child -- at least eighty courtiers had to be in the same room as witnesses to the event!

The gardens are in full bloom today. The hedges and topiary are something truly amazing.

Paris

Back to the hotel to rest, then dress for dinner. We were scheduled for a bateau-mouche ride on the Seine before the late show at the Moulin Rouge. Regrettably, snails were faster than the service of the waiters, but the food was worth waiting for, even if we barely made the boat. We had to wait for the Nocon group and Evelyn to come in from downtown, where their restaurant also had slow service, yet somehow Bart managed to get us to the quay on time without acquiring a gendarme as escort!

Paris seen from the river is delightful. Even delinquents throwing beer and juice down into the boat from two bridges could not ruin the experience. There was even a full moon out as we passed the Eiffel and Notre Dame, fat and yellow and bright to silver the surroundings of the floodlit cathedral.

Off to the Moulin Rouge, Montmarte - the red light district of Paris (the demimonde). It was warm inside, and perhaps a trifle more crowded than in the days of Toulouse-Lautrec, whose prints adorn the foyer. There were three bottles of champagne per table, and a show to match or surpass anything in Las Vegas. The Moulin Rouge, is, after all, the home of the "grandes cocottes" of can-can fame!

The bus was filled with laughter on our way back, and quick thinking from Earl had us looking out the windows on the right instead of left, thereby distracting us from a car accident. Mr. Lee, our resident rum imbiber, was very strung out, claiming he didn't want to go home after "seeing so much milk"! Grandfather, bless his proper English heart, engaged him in scholarly argument on the proper way to refer to the mammary endowments of the ladies of the chorus, and what with one thing and another, we got to the hotel by 2:30 am.

Being too excited to sleep, i spend the better part of two hours composing thank-you letters to Earl and Bart, with stationery bought at Galeries Lafayette. We leave Bart at Dunkirk tomorrow. He'll go back to Brussels to replace the broken window we got in Barcelona. For our part, we head back to Ramsgate and eventually, London...and then we scatter for home or other destinations.

Earl gave his "tips on tipping" spiel this morning -- but we showed him we were nearly 800km ahead and presented the envelopes that had been going around in Lourdes!

[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 20

Travel Notes
August 30, 1984 - Day 30
FRANCE

Lourdes to Paris - en route

Oh, my eyes. We were off at nearly the crack of dawn, for the long haul drive to Paris. At barely one hour into the trip, Earl and Bart had to scout for an open gas/petrol station for Carmen, who was in a state of urgency. Miraculously, we found a gas station with open restrooms, but once Carmen got down, everyone else decided to take advantage, too. Earl's comment of "Try not to think of running water. . ." was not much of a help! People stocked up on sandwiches, soft drinks, and canned goods at a supermarket in the next town, and the next road stop was after a toll gate for an impromptu safety check by French highway patrol. Something to do with the broken window. The picnic lunch stop, was a change after roadside restaurants. We were blessed with beautiful weather - blue skies and warm sunshine, a cool breeze to take the edge off the noon sun.

The ladies' room was a source of unwitting entertainment. The toilet was a porcelain "squat-as-you-go" affair, essentially a porcelain-lined hole in the ground with two raised steps for the feet. Ma was first in - but she's seen similar before, so no particular reaction. My own equilibrium held fairly well until I passed Carmen. I burst into giggles when she asked how it was; told her to see for herself and went away grinning. Couldn't help it, but I would have paid good money to see the expression on her face!

As each of the ladies emerged, she would be met by bland, deadpan looks before the comrades-in-distress broke up in conspiratorial laughter!

While all this was going on, Bart had himself a little rest, and a well-deserved one. Earl was bustling about confirming reservations for the optional tours in Paris, and I am determined to enjoy myself up to *here* before the tour ends! I will miss the nice people : Basil and Rita Jackson, Joe and Maria Silveira, Bart and Earl. I'll always think of them fondly, even if we lose touch with each other.

Paris - Hotel Ibis

The "family" is on the entire fifth floor, and Lois announced that her and Angy's room overlooks a cemetery, good Lord. The illuminations tour is set for nine tonight, and Earl has an expression on his face that would indicate that Paris holds warm memories for him. Looking out of the windows after five minutes in the bus during the tour, I am inclined to agree with Earl; there is an ambiance about Paris that justifies its reputation as a city of romance and romantics.

First we drove down the Champs Elysees, "The Avenue of Diamonds and Rubies", stretching from the base of the Tuileries Gardens to the Trocadero, the Eiffel Tower, the Place de l'Etoile, and the Eiffel Tower. Fantastic perspectives - it's wonderful to sight along its length from the Carrousel Arch in the Louvre courtyard, up the Place de la Concorde and the Arc du Triomphe : car headlights and tail-lights are like ribbons in motion.

Then the bus stopped at the Place de l'Etoile and we all had a chance to walk under the Arc d'Triomphe of Napoleon I (The Great) where we had time to read off the names of various generals and campaigns. We also passed through possibly one of the narrowest gaps in the city : a pair of arches opening into the Louvre courtyard. Bart says it is all in the speed and the timing of the traffic lights - I suspect knowing the bus is certain to fit between the walls is also part of the magic!

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 19

Travel Notes
August 29, 1984 - Day 29
FRANCE

Lourdes

All right, these rooms are not exactly designed for comfort. There is no place to put the suircases on the floor, so we use the beds. On the other hand, the bathroom more than makes up for the smallness of the room! So does the room's location : on the very top of the hotel, like living in a belfry!

We went back to the grotto after breakfast, and caught up with a Mass celebrated by the parish priest and bishop of the Irish diocese of St. Elphin. Then time for a quiet walk around the grotto and the Basilica while the weather smiled on us, being deliciously cool. Ma was able to offer a thanksgiving Mass in one of the chapel offices. The thing that gets me about European churches, is the question of how did they move all those blocks of stone by hand? It's awesome to think that most everyone worked at it to glorify God, and not much for fame or money (at least, we hope so).

Ma took a rest in the afternoon so I went down to the river Gave for some fresh air. On our way out later, to do some souvenir shopping, we saw Bart patching with tape and plastic sheeting, the window that got broken in Barcelona, which was a very nice, masterly job. He says as long as nobody sits close to, or beside it, it should hold till we get back to Dunkirk.

Tonight's dinner, thanks be to God and the Virgin, was more substantial than last night's! Talk about the tips due to Bart and Earl have started and Gene Nocon passing out envelopes for this purpose (bit forthcoming, eh?). My personal opinion is that money can't begin to express what those two have done to make this trip a good one.

Ma and I had one last look at the candlelight walk from the top of the basilica. It was awesome - a sea of light in the dark, and there are those who would find a comforting symbolism in that. Earl mentioned before we pulled into Lourdes that it wuld be hot and warned about the dangers of fainting, but it seems he was proven wrong on both counts, fortunately!

There's an early start scheduled for tomorrow's loooong drive up to Paris, the last stop of the tour.

The *last* stop! Where has the time gone?

[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 18

Travel Notes
August 28, 1984 - Day 28
SPAIN - FRANCE

Barcelona, Spain - Hotel Regina

Talk about your rude awakenings, everyone jolted out of half-conscious state by the news that the bus had been broken into! Some hooligans rendered the window of the left-hand emergency door a total loss, making off with Frank's two bottels of wine and the Silveiras' cardigans before vanishing into the night. Bart has very little reason indeed to love Barcelona in particular and Spain in general, now. The remaining glass had to be cleaned, and something improvised to cover the empty space where the window used to be, which process delayed our departure so that we left at eight instead of seven.

Barcelona, Spain - Lourdes, France - en route

The broken window raised eyebrows at Perpignan, and sighs of relief from me and Ma, for we've entered France for the last time. It looks like Earl can manage a good night's sleep in Lourdes, now that we've had a smooth border crossing, and after we get through the Pyrenees to Lourdes. The lunch stop was memorable for the little self-service that I think deserves three stars for its poitrine de veau. It's served with shell pasta in a golden sauce, precisely what one needs to recover equilibrium after traveling the zigzag roads. We apparently had a near miss when a sleepy driver shifted into our lane - just as we rounded a bend in the road! Bart whisked the bus into the opposite (and fortunately, clear!) lane and had us back in the proper lane before all the sleepy passengers and Earl even knew something was out of kilter...our eyes met in the mirror for a moment as he did a quick check to see if anyone had awakened, and I gave him an approving nod, as did Grandfather Basil.

Lourdes, France - Hotel Christina

We arrived safely in Lourdes in time for dinner, but I think we were underfed. ONE slice of meat on the plate? It felt like we were served not merely a pilgrim's dinner, but a penitent's one, more likely, as the slice wasn't all that big, either. Two other busloads had pulled in ahead of us, but still. . .a little more of the main course and less of the bread would have been nice.

Once dinner had finished, straight to the grotto for the candlelight procession and a drink of the holy water. To be in Lourdes, especially after the small miracle Our Lady worked for me. . .it makes me wonder what I ever did right to deserve it. A very humbling experience, especially when one sees the faith of so many people from so many places, and somehow you get the feeling that there is hope for the world yet!

[EUROBOUT CONTINENTAL CAROUSEL - 1984] DAY 17

Travel Notes
August 27, 1984 - Day 27
SPAIN

Barcelona - City Tour

Hola Espana! The group was on time and the guide, late! Though I must say that it was a comprehensive tour of the Plaza Cataluna, Sagrada Familia Church, Montjuie (Jewish Mountain), the harbor and replica of Columbus' Santa Maria, the Ramblas, and back to the self-service where we had dinner last night. Among the tour highlights were the Cathedral in the old town; though when the guide gave us a walking tour and a shopping break, I think that was considered the best part of all. Ma and I got ourselves a Spanish shawl and a fan each, and other bits to remind us of Spain. Going through the Ramblas, we passed through a narrow lane where Bart managed to squeeze through - just barely - and the guide was loudly appreciative of his skill.

Barcelona - Paella Dinner

There was a break in the day's activities for that time-honored tradition of the afternoon siesta, then off to dinner! The restaurant is off the little square behind the Cathedral, with lots of cobblestones! It was delightful to realize that Bart and Earl get to sit with us this time, and watching the normally EXTREMELY reserved Tour Manager acted as wine steward for the Sangria was something to see, indeed! I was fortunate to have him on my right, Grandfather on my left, and Bart took the head of the table beside Mr. Nocon.

The dinner equal to that in Rome : salad, shrimp in the shell, paella with clams, all washed down with Sangria. The jokes flew thick and fast, and Earl made an after-dinner speech while turning a pretty shade of pink - a nice Kodak moment, that was. I got involved with a scholarly debate with Jun on just exactly how long the Spanish were in the Philippines - 400 or 392 years? In the end, the question was settled with a compromise and a Sangria toast : but not without some ruffled feathers on the oldies' part.

Another source of merriment was when Grandmother Rita walked out of the restaurant on Lois' arm, and *singing*! Grandfather was *much* amused. Bart put on the "Chicken Dance" (again!) when we were all in the bus, while Bertha and Frank danced in the empty plaza. At 11:30 pm, the city is just starting to wake up from siesta, with folks all over the Ramblas.

We will definitely be sleeping all the way to Lourdes!